The distilling room at Dunnet Bay Distillery in Caithness feels like a cross between a chemistry lab and the potions cupboard at Hogwarts. Clear glass bottles with percentages and numbers inked on the outside perch near a tiny vacuum still….
My Weekend in the North of Scotland: Caithness, Sutherland, and the NC500
Darkness comes slowly to the north. Even in Scotland’s winter months a light lingers low in the sky after the early sundown, leaving a slight trace of twilight until, finally, darkness descends. It was this glow in the late afternoon…
Notes on Going Home (Again): A Week in Lewis and Harris
It was March 2016 when I first returned home to the Outer Hebrides, 18 months after moving to the USA and being prohibited from travelling. I expected the experience to be revelatory, and in the end it was, but not…
A Week in Lewis and Harris – on Video!
Lewis and Harris. You rarely hear of one Hebridean island without the other, and there’s a good reason for it: the two islands are actually one. It’s easy to see how the situation could get confusing for anyone unfamiliar with…
10 Books to Read Before Visiting Scotland’s Outer Hebrides
The islands of the Outer Hebrides have been inspiring writing – fact, fiction, and downright fancy – for years. From the 18th century diary entries of Boswell and Johnson, to the current-day best-sellers by Peter May, writers visiting (or living…
Visiting Eilean Donan Castle: Getting Emotional at a Scottish Icon
I had seen it on postcards and shortbread tins, spotted it on tourism adverts and posters. It’s apparently Scotland’s most-photographed castle (in a country with thousands of the things, that’s quite a title), and yet I wasn’t quite sure where…
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