We’ve heard it all before, those of us who hail from the Outer Hebrides, from Scotland’s Western Isles. Tell someone that you call the islands home, and the responses are fairly predictable.
“Where is that, exactly?” “Are you near Shetland?” “Do you have electricity up there?” “Have you ever left the island?”
Ignorant comments like these from non-islanders, either those visiting or those safely ensconced in cities like Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London, are frustratingly commonplace. Even worse is the lazy attitude of those paid to tell the story of our shores to would-be visitors: the travel writers.
When it comes to travel writing, there appears to be only one acceptable media narrative for the Western Isles: the one of a beautiful landscape inhabited by a backward society of religious fundamentalists who chain up their children’s playgrounds on Sunday and survive sparingly in a harsh climate.
As the Americans like to say: give me a break!
Yes, the Outer Hebrides are home to stunning natural landscapes, and I wholeheartedly agree with Lonely Planet’s assertion that “there are few more beautiful places on earth” (seriously, see for yourself). But that is where our affinity ends.
In story after story, tradition is raised up as the core of island life, whether in terms of employment, music, or the infamous Sunday shop closures. While it’s true that the culture here is strong – islanders like myself are staunchly proud of their roots – it’s a mistake to extrapolate from there and assume that everything and everyone is stuck in the past.
Fishing, weaving, and crofting were once thriving industries in the Outer Hebrides, and while they are still in business, they are no longer the mainstays of the economy, as so many articles imply. Like the rest of the country, islanders work in all manner of roles, in tourism, hospitality, local government, engineering, higher education, the media and the health service, to name just a few. (Surprise! We’re just like you!)
It is true that many (but certainly not all) of the supermarkets, shops, and offices are closed on Sunday. But it is not true that all islanders are old-school, God-fearing church-goers; that they all treat Sunday as a day of “contemplation and Bible-reading”; or that children are barred from playing in padlocked playgrounds on Sundays. The latter has never happened in my lifetime – and I’m approaching the end of my third decade faster than I would like – yet it’s something that rears its head regularly in news reports and travel features on the Outer Hebrides.
Like the rest of the country, there are those that go to church, and those who do not. Regardless of your religious proclivities, Sunday is a guaranteed day spent with family; the Castle Grounds, beaches, and restaurants are always busy on this much-welcomed day off. (It should be noted that Sunday is also enjoyed as a day off in much of continental Europe, and yet these communities are not regarded disparagingly by the media as a cultural throwback.)
Even when you move past the same old cultural stereotypes, the travel guides for the Outer Hebrides are still despairingly unimaginative. A case in point is their food recommendations. Take Digby Chick, for example. The more formal restaurant in the centre of Stornoway has lovely food, but the way the guidebooks frame it, you could be forgiven for thinking it’s the only place worth eating and drinking at in the entire island chain.
There’s no mention of the sloe gin cocktails served in mason jars at An Lanntair, the modern arts centre that overlooks Stornoway harbour; no word of the perfect cup of coffee to be had at Delights on North Beach Street, a coffee accompanied by cakes and great conversation; and no sign of the hearty sandwiches at 40 North on the west side of Lewis, sandwiches so local that they put New York’s farm-to-table pretensions to shame.
And what about the Thai Cafe (a personal favourite), the Chinese and Bangladeshi restaurants, or the Nepalese chefs that serve up Central-Asian inspired wraps at HS1 and the Caladh Inn? Forget about it: they don’t fit the stereotype, so they don’t make the story.
These travel writers are parachuted into the Outer Hebrides for a short period of time and simply see what they want to see: a quaint community unaffected by modern society. The author of an article published last year was apparently astonished to discover that something as modern as a boutique hotel, the Hotel Hebrides, could be found on the Isle of Harris (if he’d gone a little further he’d have spotted a few more luxury options, including the award-winning, self-catering Broch House).
Lonely Plant writes that “life has traditionally been a tough, self-reliant affair… Buildings and towns are usually practical bases rather than an end in themselves.” Another writer describes day-to-day life in the Hebrides as “arduously mundane.” Rough Guides adds that Stornoway is “really only useful for stocking up on provisions or catching the bus.”
I can’t help but wonder where, exactly, these people have been. No-one I know describes life on the islands as ‘tough’, and I can think of plenty of locations that are certainly worth a visit in their own right (there’s an entire section of this blog dedicated to them). If one of these writers had taken the time to open a copy of any of the local newspapers, they would have been met with endless listings and features on what’s been happening in the islands, a life on which is far from “mundane.”
These writers’ observations illustrate a blatant projection of their own preconceived opinions onto a place they do not know. It’s an unfortunately common trope in travel writing, one that a number of journalists, like Julie Schwietert Collazo, are trying to transcend as they look beyond the superficial level of the destinations they write about.
Collazo recently hosted a workshop on place-based journalism at the New York Travel Festival, which I attended. While she was referring to the lack of in-depth reporting about Latin America in the mainstream travel media, my mind immediately went to the tried and tested stereotypes aimed at my home in the Western Isles.
Travel writers tend to romanticise the way of life and the landscape of the Outer Hebrides, constantly referring to our supposedly bleak and isolated existence, ignoring the fact that in reality, the lives of islanders are like the lives of citizens across the United Kingdom.
We shop at brand-name supermarkets, with the added choice of local butchers, bakers, and fishmongers. We watch the same TV, eat the same food, and enjoy the same pastimes – we’re just lucky enough to do all this with a particularly stunning backdrop, an intriguing history behind us, and an additional language in our arsenal.
So the next time you see a travel article talking about the Outer Hebrides, whether the Butt of Lewis in the north or the Sound of Barra in the south, make sure you take it with a pinch of salt. Or better yet, book the trip and experience it for yourself. After all you’ve read, these islands at the edge of Europe might just surprise you.
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Have you ever seen cultural stereotypes in action in travel writing and the media, about the Outer Hebrides or elsewhere? Let me know in the comments below – I’d love to hear from you!
To find out what the Outer Hebrides are really like, check out my guide to the islands full of first-hand stories, inspiration for visiting, and tips on what to do if you’re visiting!
I couldn’t agree more! We adored our visit to the Western Isles, partly because of the rich history and the fact that the locals are so proud and protective of it – there are so many well looked after historical sites – and also because it is a naturally beautiful place (those beaches!), but also the people were warm and welcoming and interesting. We found Stornaway to be a buzzing and pretty town and, two years later, we STILL bang on about the amazing food we ate at Auberge Carnish!
Thanks Nat! So happy to hear you enjoyed your visit to the islands 🙂 And I’ve heard a lot of good things about Auberge – it’s definitely on my to-do list for the next time I’m home!
I am guilty of wondering about wifi on the island, but only fleetingly, as if I was lucky enough to visit such a beautiful place, wifi would be the last thing on my mind! You certainly made me think differently though and Lewis just moved further up my list!
Thanks G – I’m pleased that this has helped bump Lewis higher up your travel list! (And don’t worry, there is wifi!)
Great post Katie! I ‘ve been hankering after a trip to 40 North since seeing it on BBC Alba a while back, and when I do make it to the Outer Hebrides I’ll certainly be visiting some of the other cafes and restaurants you’ve mentioned – they sound great!
Thanks Elaine! I didn’t see 40 North on BBC Alba, I’ll have to have a look for that – but yes, the food there is incredible 🙂
Well said! As an incomer to the Hebrides we found life wonderful. Adjusting to the weather can be problematic, but we prided on working out ways to grow our own food and did so successfully. A fantastic place to live, and we have many friends, both incomers like ourselves and the local population who are warm, welcoming and generous.
Thanks, Carol! I’m happy to hear you’re enjoying life in your adopted home of the Hebrides!
Well said I agreed with all and learnt about 40North, a definite visit the next day off trip up west side. We in Harris also have wonderful places to eat, I love Rodel Hotel for a meal, Croft 36 in Northton, bread which is scrumptious and whatever else they have in the shop with honesty box. They will also make meals for you and deliver them. Temple Cafe in the old McGillivary Centre in Northton is also well worth a visit. Ardhasaig is on my bucket list as is Pairc an Strath, all I have to do is get him in doors out (pref with his wallet)!
Thanks, Gail! I completely agree with you on your tips for Harris. I can never drive past the Northton road without picking up some of the bread from Croft 36 (and it’s so good I’ve usually eaten it by the time we’re back on the main road again!). 40 North is a firm favourite of mine, so I definitely recommend a stop off there the next time you’re on the West Side 🙂
Well said but unfortunately ignorance is a very powerful tool, all too often we read reviews like this not only about the Outer Hebrides but all the paths of the earth that are least trodden & they are invariably patronising, unfair, poorly researched & specifically designed to be aimed at the average punter to be taken in by such utter nonsense.
We should be allowed to sue these so called “travel journalists” for defamation of character to the land that they profess to be qualified to judge, they have nothing other than a minimal talent to put pen to paper, visit these places, often for a very brief period of time (hours rather than days) & bang an article out in some mundane tabloid or :”crossword magazine” & pretend they are Judith Chalmers.
If you wish to visit anywhere in the world including the Outer Hbrides….GO… & make your own mind up, come back & share your experience as long as you have spent more than an hour there…..simples!!!
Thanks Dougie! You’re right – the best option is to see things for yourself and make up your own mind 🙂 Unfortunately those who don’t have that opportunity need to rely on the media, so I think it’s important that places are represented as accurately as possible.
I grew up on the island and still visit regularly, and agree with most of what you say. But. The fact is that phone reception even in town is much worse than it is in cities ( but not other small towns, naturally), the shops outside stornoway are very small and completely inadequate if you want to do a big shop (hence, get your provisions in stornoway), and the main correction I have to make is that the playground in stornoway near where I grew up was chained every Sunday: not just the swings but also the slide! The slide. To the best of my knowledge it still happens (I last checked 5 years ago). So sorry, but while it’s not ass common as it was, it is still a thing. And that’s also its charm. Anyway, who wants more visitors?
It’s always nice to hear people’s perspectives on Island Life however, I find myself a bit surprised by some of the remarks made and feel obliged to continue Katie’s efforts in defending the Islands. Having recently moved home to the island after spending most of my adult life living in a city, I have been amazed at the number of improvements and developments since I lived here last.
‘Traditional’ Sundays are no longer a requirement but a lifestyle choice; those who wish to spend Sunday with family, attending church or simply having a ‘lazy day’ are happy to do so and those who wish to maybe go to a park (no matter what part of the island) or dine in one of the many local restaurants that now open on a Sunday or simply browse around a local shop that now opens 7 days a week (providing fuel for those who would like to go and explore other areas of the islands). Furthermore, with the addition of Sunday ferry sailings and Sunday flights, one is not limited with regards to travel on and off the Island which directly contradicts the stereotypical view of island life that is portrayed too often in the media.
With regards to shops (out-with the town), I could say that I would have once agreed with your statement but now, with the opening of numerous other community shops and cafes, many people choose to only visit Stornoway when it is absolutely necessary as their local stores are ensuring they are meeting the needs of their communities. The new shops in Tong and Point are prime examples of such businesses that are openly praised by locals.
Finally, when thinking about visitors to the island, I am surprised that someone from the islands would make such a statement as tourism and visitors to the islands play a pivotal role in supporting the local economy; where would local hotels, B&B’s and restaurants be without the increased number of visitors, particularly during the summer months. If local businesses did not receive these visitors, would the unemployment rate in the islands rise dramatically and make island life difficult to sustain? In addition to this, the islands are rich in history and culture (the Callanish Stones, Broch and the Iron Age House to name but a few), should such heritage and culture not be experienced by all and celebrated by local people? Also, the islands’ are home to some of the most breathtaking views I have ever experienced (I am able to express an informed opinion having visited many countries around the world) and we should encourage these to be experienced by others out-with the island community in the same way that we travel the world seeking new experiences, sights and cultures.
Yes, Island life will never be like a city, but this is a poor comparison to make given the remote location and smaller population, but the islands offer an exciting, unique and memorable experience for both local people and visitors to the islands. Island life can be as slow-paced or as hectic as one would wish; it offers a lifestyle that can be easily adapted to individual tastes and preferences and I could not be more proud to be from such a culturally rich, scenic and unique part of the world.
Katie, well done in posting such an honest piece in defence of the islands, I sincerely hope that local people, visitors and anyone else who may be taking an interest in your post will focus on the positive, honest reviews of island life and not those based on prehistoric stereotypes that depict a way of life and a group of people that certainly do not match the wonderful island that I was fortunate enough to be brought up on and, now, return to with new opportunities available and great experiences to come!
Thank you, Alistair! I completely agree with the points you make about modern island life, and I couldn’t have put this better myself: “Island life can be as slow-paced or as hectic as one would wish.”
Thanks for your comment, Ellie!
I’m not attempting to compare Stornoway or the islands to a city, but rather pointing out misrepresentations of the region in mainstream travel writing, and identifying the fact that other small towns across the country (and indeed the continent) are not treated by the media with the patronising attitude that the islands and islanders are subject to.
Do you mind me asking which playground you’re referring to here? While some people have informed me they experienced it in Stornoway in the early 1990s, this is the first I’ve heard of it happening in any time frame that could be considered recent, and is something I’d like to look into.
As my previous blog posts show, I feel differently to you on the matter of shops and service provisions outside of Stornoway, as my personal experience of the local shops and various restaurants and cafes – both as a local, and while showing visitors around – has been brilliant.
And of course, as a travel blogger, and someone who believes that seeing the world and experiencing cultures different to our own is incredibly beneficial, I’m all for encouraging visitors to the islands (and that’s even before you get to the benefits that tourism brings the island economy). I’ll encourage people to visit the Callanish Stones just as I’ll encourage them to see the Great Wall of China 🙂
Another excellent piece, Katie. Keep up the GREAT work! 🙂 x
Aw thanks Iain, that means a lot! x
So true Katie- people see what they want to see, and I sometimes get the feeling they’re disappointed we don’t live in blackhouses and spend our time hunched over spinning wheels.
Thanks, Susy. I’ve definitely got that impression from some of the would-be visitors I’ve encountered over the years!
We at the Hebrides subreddit (http://www.reddit.com/r/Hebrides/) have made this our ‘stickied’ post at the top of our little page as it so succinctly describes the way some view these islands. Thought i’d let you know about our page.
Thanks Ally! That’s very kind of you to share the post, I really appreciate it 🙂
I love this fiery post. I’ve never been, but will definitely check your blog for recommendations when I do visit. The cocktails in mason jars and boutique hotel definitely sound like my sort of style. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Char! I definitely recommend a visit 🙂 I can honestly say that the beaches in Harris are one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen anywhere in the world – and Harris has some lovely boutique hotels and self-catering properties to relax in. (And looking ahead, the islands are a great place for kids too!)
An almost excellent defence of the islands. We all tire of the stereotypes, however, with the greatest of respect, I feel you have partially fallen in to the trap of the travel writers you disparage.
This piece is clearly a defence of Outer Hebridean life as experienced in Lewis and Harris.
The Southern Isles (which get their only fleeting mention in the final paragraph) do not have the same Sunday closure culture in the main.
Life in the Outer Hebrides is not confined to what can or can’t be accessed in Stornoway, or Lewis – especially when it takes a ferry and car journey to get there.
Thanks for reading, Archie.
As I say in the post, this cultural stereotyping is an issue that I believe affects the whole of the Western Isles – from the Butt to Barra. I’ve found that major travel guide books and media outlets portray the Southern Isles with the same patronising, backwards stereotypes as they do Lewis, Harris, Scalpay, and Great Bernera further north. In other words, they stereotype the Outer Hebrides.
To disregard the article by focusing on a few specific examples I use to illustrate my argument is to miss the overarching point of the piece. The individual situations I use to refute the guidebooks’ claims are from Lewis and Harris because these are the areas I know best; travel blogs are by their nature very personal. For a good overview of travel blogs versus travel guides, and the differences between them, I highly recommend this post: http://landlopers.com/2015/02/04/good-travel-blog
I don’t believe that my use of personal examples detracts from the fact that the Outer Hebrides as a whole are stereotyped, and it seems others throughout the Outer and Inner Hebrides – and even readers from Shetland – agree with me. The Southern Isles are part of the Outer Hebrides, and as I argue, the Outer Hebrides are regularly stereotyped negatively by the media.
Fantastic article Katie!
I always get the same comments from folk in the cities. The same people live in Edinburgh/Glasgow their entire life and haven’t gone further north than Perth or Inverness at a push!
It is certainly a frustration of mine too and I find myself defending it to these unenlightened mainlanders.
Aw thanks Graeme, that means a lot! And you’re right – a lot of people who make these kinds of comments aren’t exactly well travelled themselves! Great to hear from you, hope you’re doing well 🙂
A Facebook friend living on Lewis referred me to your blog because we’re huge fans of Lewis, but live Stateside in New Jersey, an hour south of NYC. My husband is descended from the MacAulays of Lewis and we first visited on our honeymoon twenty years ago and again last summer, bringing the kids. Lewis has our hearts and a small piece of our soul as well.
I, too, was totally misinformed by recent travel recommendations when making this last trip, since traveling with children (ages 10 and 12) needs a lot more planning than traveling as young honeymooners. We took the Saturday evening ferry in, bringing food from the Tesco at Ullapool in the boot of the rental car so that we weren’t left starving on Sunday, when it appeared that most of the Island would be closed. While I planned that we’d explore much of the natural beauty of the island on Sunday, those travel brochures did lead me to believe that even driving and hiking around was disrespectful and I felt like we held our breath most of the day, for fear of disturbing the religious peace.
We did stay at a house I’d found on Airbnb, located right near the Whale Bone Arch. Unfortunately 40 North, which was just a hop, skip & jump down the hill, was closed on Sundays and Mondays, and we departed through Harris on Tuesday. 🙁
I’m delighted to hear you love Lewis so much, Rachel, thank you for your comment! I’m so sorry to hear that you had been given the impression you wouldn’t be allowed to do much on Sunday during your stay, though. Sunday is often the best day to go for a drive, or a walk or a hike, since most of the shops are closed – I loved my Sunday afternoon walks at home (when the weather was good!). Hopefully next time you’ll have a better experience 🙂
Oh, no! Sorry I gave the wrong impression. We DID take Sunday to walk and hike around and explore the Norse Kiln, Dun Carloway Broch and the Callanish Stones. But I did feel like we needed to keep our voices down. 🙂
Oh I see – well that’s good to hear!
Everything house write about is true. As I get older, I’ve witnessed many changes and often railed against those who have bemoaned them.
I’ve just come back from “civilisation”, where a chap in a village (smaller than mine), asked if there “was anyone else up there”, another jokingly commented that the “broadband was slow, but then again, you won’t have anything like that up there yet”, (it was barely able to load a page, we have fibre-optic, well…soon), and there was NO mobile signal, ” but you won’t have to worry about that”, the inference being plain.
I’ve just read Malachi Tallack’s, excellent “60 Degrees North”, and felt compelled to make my own ‘defence’ in a short piece they let me write occasionally.
Malachy writes about a “sense of place”.
It trumps a sense of superiority and ignorance.
Great piece.
N
Thanks for your comment, Norrie 🙂 I’ve just Googled 60 Degrees North, and now I’m adding to my reading list! I’d love to read your response to it too, if there is a link to it somewhere?
I was brought up in Sleat on Skye in the 50’s/60’s. I moved to Inverness to train as a nurse. I met my husband, brought up 2 children, an now as Grandparents we are back on Skye in my childhood home. I was met with some strange questions from one or two of my former work colleagues when I said I was retiring to Skye. “But what will you do all day?” “What about shopping, what will you do for shops?” “What about all that rain?” My answers “The same as I do here except I’ve got all day to do it”!!. “We have shops for just about anything”!! “The rain gives us the lovely green landscape and it does rain in Inverness too”!! One of my friends was asked, when she and her husband retired from Glasgow to Skye, how often they would be going to Inverness for food shopping. !! We live in one of the best places on earth. My daughter and her family would live here tomorrow, but as her husband has a good job and she works with Learning support they are happy for now. But they will retire here on the croft when the time comes. My grand daughter loves Skye so much she is planning to go to College to study Marine Biology. We have the best of both worlds.
Thanks for your comment, Mary! I think you’ve put it perfectly: we have the best of both worlds in the islands. I had to laugh at the comment about the rain 🙂 I’ve only been to Skye twice, on brief work trips, but I loved it both times. Definitely somewhere I need to go back to!
Great post Katie! Hope you are well! 🙂
Thanks, Jenny! I’m doing great thanks – hope you are too! It looks like things are going really well with Clickybox 🙂 x
I am an American and sadly I have never visited the Outer Hebrides. But if I won a trip to anywhere in the world, the Outer Hebrides is where I would go. And I am sure Scotland would have a hard time making me go home. I’m not sure how I fell in love with those magical islands. Maybe the books and novels I have read about the Hebrides did the trick. I am sure wonderful blogs like yours have had a huge impact. And it is likely the Scottish blood in my veins stirs my obsession. At any rate, one day I will visit, I promise you that. 🙂
This was a great read! The Hebrides is without a doubt made of some fantastical islands and awe-inspiring landscapes, but it certainly does not exist in a vacuum. Stumbling upon a sudden Chinese restaurant in Stornoway or unexpectedly hearing Bangladeshi being spoken around me actually made for an all the more richer experience and gave me a much better understanding of the area’s socio-cultural evolution.
Pre-historic brochs and stone circles coexisting with a growing multi-cultural/racial population–now that’s quirky! I was even amazed to see how many people in the more urban parts are so hip and fashionable.
Glad you enjoyed the post – and your visit to the Outer Hebrides! I find people are, for some strange reason, always surprised to learn there are four Chinese restaurants, two Thai restaurants etc… as if we were completely isolated from the rest of the country, and the world!
Hi! I’m going to visit Lewis at the end of May and I didn’t realise it until I read what you wrote and it’s true that in both of my travel guides, there are only 2 pages about both Harris and Lewis, and at the time I just thought “oh man they really didn’t write everything there was to see” because I looked up for infos before that. Anyway it was just to say that I’m going to re read your article to enjoy the isle properly haha
And also, do you know any book (travel writing, novel..) that happens on Lewis ? (I’m solo travelling and I’d like to find a good book to read)
Thank you for the great article!
Hi Lucie, thanks so much for your comment! I have a blog post called “10 Books To Read Before Visiting the Outer Hebrides” which will have some options for you – both fiction and non-fiction – and if you’re looking for novels, any (or all!) of Peter May’s books set in the islands are a great choice. Hope you have a great time in the Outer Hebrides!