Some places take a while to get under your skin, requiring return visits or long stays to make an imprint.
Then there are the places that steal your heart straight away, places like the charming town of Chestnut Hill in Pennsylvania. Before my first evening there was through, I was mentally leaving New York City and buying a quaint stone home on the edge of Pastorius Park, a gorgeous green space a stone’s throw away from the town’s bustling main street.
That’s just the kind of town Chestnut Hill is, although technically, Chestnut Hill isn’t a town at all – it’s a neighbourhood of Philadelphia, the fifth largest city in the USA. This is just one of the many reasons Chestnut Hill is so special: it feels like a lively small town in its own right, a town full of sidewalk cafes, independent shops, and a plethora of flowers and parks, but it’s all a quick train ride from the city centre.
Chestnut Hill is literally built on a hill – it’s the highest point in Philadelphia – and so is always a few degrees cooler than the downtown area. It was this location, coupled with the plentiful green spaces, that made it the summer escape of choice for wealthy Philadelphians back in the late 1800s. It was – and still is – a city break within city limits. Since then, though, the neighbourhood has fallen under the radar as a tourist destination, but as far as I’m concerned, it’s a hidden gem that more than deserves the chance to shine again.
Today, the bulk of the action is still found on the main thoroughfare of Germantown Avenue, although I soon learned the locals never give the street its full title.
In the neighbourhood, the street is known simply as “the Avenue.” It was here I dropped off my bags before exploring the nearby area, when I checked into the historic Chestnut Hill Hotel. The building has been around since 1894, and rumour has it that in previous lives the hotel was a Prohibition-era speakeasy, and even a one-time bordello.
While there’s no hint of an illicit past these days, the hotel has held on to its history, with various rooms drawing on the past through design. My supreme king room had nods to nature – a big theme in the neighbourhood – with garden-style paintings on the walls, and floral patterns on the lampshades. My favourite part about the room (other than the giant bed, of course) was that it overlooked the Avenue, which I watched slowly come to life over an espresso the next morning.
After checking in, I made my way up the Avenue to 3000 BC Spa. Before I jumped head first into my 24-hour tour of the town, some relaxation was in order, and this high profile spa was the place for it.
I’m not sure if you’re meant to fall asleep during a facial, but I very nearly did, during my relaxing microblading facial, which I was told is “the red carpet of facials.” It certainly felt luxurious, and left my skin so fresh and baby soft I didn’t even feel the need to apply make-up for my introduction to Chestnuts Hill’s evening social calendar.
For a small neighbourhood, I found that Chestnut Hill has a surprisingly high concentration of excellent food options.
At Paris Bistro, the chef himself came out to talk to us over dinner (which for me was a starter of gazpacho soup, followed by a cheese board, and then an intensely rich short rib in red wine sauce). Evening drinks took place al fresco at El Poquito, a Baja-inspired Mexican cantina, which I absolutely adored, and breakfast the next day was a rather indulgent raspberry scone from Night Kitchen Bakery.
One of the most recent additions to the town’s food scene seemed to be becoming something of a community hub; I never passed Chestnut Hill Brewing Company, at The Market at the Fareway, without seeing a crowd of people both inside and out. The entire market space feels made for social gatherings: inside, there’s everything from coffee, chocolate, and cakes, to Jamaican jerk chicken and wood-fired pizza, while outside, there’s ample seating set in a modern, yet relaxed, environment.
When I wasn’t eating everything in sight, I squeezed in some shopping time.
There are over 125 locally owned independent retailers here, and they really bring character to the neighbourhood. I browsed around a gorgeous vintage design store, Isabella Sparrow, and popped into the old hardware shop that still sells absolutely everything you might need, even (still working!) old-school landline phones.
Every doorway and window display on the Avenue had something to entice me inside, and I noticed that in each one, customers talked to shopkeepers with the familiarity that only comes from a small community. It made me smile – you definitely don’t get that in New York City!
As I strolled the Avenue on my second day in town, I was able to see another big part of the town’s personality: it’s long-time support of the arts. The Plein Air Art Festival takes place each summer, with local artists setting up on a pre-assigned section of the Avenue to paint what they see in front of them. I had a great time chatting to the different artists (one recognised my accent straight away!) and seeing how they interpreted the scenes in front of them in sometimes drastically different ways.
The festival reinforced what I’d experienced at the Woodmere Art Museum the evening before, where after listening to the most incredible jazz concert, I toured the rest of the museum and learned how Woodmere, and the town as a whole, really supports Philadelphia-area artists.
And then, of course, there are the flowers.
You can’t talk about Chestnut Hill without talking about the greenery. Chestnut Hill is known as Philadelphia’s Garden District, and as it celebrates its 20th year holding the title, it’s easy to see why. There are flower boxes and florists everywhere, small green spaces known as “pocket parks”, and the trails and woods of the Wissahickon Valley Park nearby. While I didn’t make it to the trails, I did get to spend a morning at Morris Arboretum.
I’m a country girl at heart, so after more than two years of city living, I take any chance I can to get out into nature – and strolling through the 92 acres of the Morris Arboretum in the early hours of a warm summer’s day was nothing short of bliss. When I arrived, the Rose Garden was in full bloom, the roses’ heady perfume infusing the air and causing everyone who came across it – myself included – to exclaim in delight.
The Arboretum is part of the University of Pennsylvania, and works to promote “an understanding of the relationship between plants, people, and place.” While I didn’t have enough time to really delve into the educational aspect of the gardens, I did get to recharge simply by being there: breathing in the flowery scents, listening to the whispering of leaves and the trickle of streams, and really being present in the moment.
What tied all these Chestnut Hill experiences together, though – the food, the art, the flowers – was the strong sense of community.
Chestnut Hill is the kind of neighbourhood where families and businesses have been around for generations, and where friends and neighbours stop to talk to each other on the street, in line for their morning coffee, or at one of the many local events that take place throughout the year.
It’s difficult to put into words, but the feeling of community that permeates the place is something I didn’t realise I had been missing since I left the Outer Hebrides, and something I hadn’t found in the USA until I visited Chestnut Hill. I felt instantly at home in Chestnut Hill, touched by the welcome I received, and awed by the obvious pride that everyone here has in their neighbourhood.
As I boarded the train back to New York City, I knew I’d return to the Avenue. I left a little bit of my heart in Chestnut Hill, and I’ll need to go back and get it.
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NEED TO KNOW
How do I get there? From Philadelphia’s Center City, Chestnut Hill is a 25-minute drive, or a 30 minute train journey on SEPTA Regional Rail. (From NYC, I took an Amtrak train to Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station, and an Uber to the door of the hotel).
Where should I stay? I stayed at the Chestnut Hill Hotel (which I can highly recommend – the staff were so friendly, and the hotel itself is lovely), but there’s also the Silverstone B&B, and of course a selection of Airbnb apartments as well.
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How do you feel about visiting small towns on your travels? Have you ever been to Chestnut Hill, or would you like to visit?
Let me know in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!
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A huge thank you to the Chestnut Hill tourism team for inviting me to visit, and to everyone I met for welcoming me with open arms!
Thank you for visiting and your acknowledgement of all Chestnut Hill has to offer. The Chestnut Hill Business Assoc and local businesses strive to make our visitors comfortable and welcome.
Bruce Hoffman
Director Gravers Lane Gallery
Past President, Chestnut Hill Business Assoc.
Thanks Bruce – I had a really wonderful time, and received such a warm welcome from everyone!
I hope the get a chance, on your next visit, to come to the 8000 block and visit us at the Hill Company. We moved down the avenue from the 8600 block 2 years ago to find more room for the beautiful outdoor furniture that we sell. (Having been at that location since 1949!) We have 25 different manufacturers showcased in various vignettes, in12,00 sq ft. Part of this large space is also our gift store where we sell all kinds of seasonal home and garden accessories. At Christmas time, we turn into a winter wonderland selling all manner of gifts and decorations.hope to see you soon
Thanks Linda – I’ll definitely try and pay it a visit the next time I’m in Chestnut Hill!
Sorry about the typos. I hope you get the chance…….. and it’s 12,000 sq ft.
Dear Katie,
Enjoyed reading your perspective on Chestnut Hill!
My family has lived within 20 minutes of there for 30 years. We’ve seen shops and restaurants come and go, but right now, well, it is pretty much perfect!! And your pictures and descriptions of everything, including Morris Arboretum and Woodmere museum, really touched on all that makes it such a beautiful area to visit, and LIVE ! Thank you for your wonderful words, and maybe we will see you at Harry Potter Days in the Fall, or Stag and Doe Nights in December, or the Spring or Fall festivals on the Avenue:-)
Thanks Pat, I’m so glad you enjoyed the post. Chestnut Hill was wonderful to visit, and I can easily see how it’s a wonderful place to live, too! I’m already trying to plan a return visit for later in the year – it sounds like there are lots of great events in the calendar!
I am so happy and delighted to have just read this article on Face Book put on there by my daughter, Kaye Baluarte. She has been a resident living for some 40 years in the same beautiful area in one of the original houses of Germantown. She not only raised her family there she owned and operated Windfall Gallery, a delightful gift shop for 20 years. The shop is now owned and operated by one of her co-workers who is carrying on the core value of the shops that are up and down the highly unique and friendly Germantown Avenue..
Kaye was born and raised in Northern Minnesota on a farm along with her three brothers……….She says her heart is still loyal to the values she received living so close to nature and I can see how she brought that with her in her life and love for the village of Germantown, Pennsylvania
I am now still living where I grew up and raised my family and at 95 years of age I can honestly say that the very best vacations I have had has not only been visiting my daughter but the yearly visits to what I call one of the most beautiful and friendly places on the face of this earth..
Thank you so much for your comment, Marie! I can see why you (and your daughter) love the place so much. It’s an area I think I’ll be visiting a lot from now on – and I’ll have to visit your daughter’s gallery the next time I’m there, too 🙂
Love your story Marie. 95 and actively commenting on the internet – awesome. I’m a resident of this villiage and you should visit more often !!!
Loved your article and the pictures. I feel very fortunate to live in CH and appreciate the beauty and sense of community this “village” inside a city offers. I tried unsuccessfully sharing the article to my FB page,any chance you could fix the link from your end?
Thanks Pia – I’m so pleased to hear you enjoyed the post! The link is working fine from this end, so I’m not sure what’s wrong; maybe try copy and paste the URL from the search bar instead of using the Facebook share button?
Great article! I have lived here for 2 years and LOVE it! I feel so lucky to have a great apartment right on the Avenue!
Thanks Valerie! What a wonderful place to live – and right on the Avenue, too!
please stop to say hello on your next visit!
regards
Bruce
Have lived in Chestnut Hill for 50 years and its like a fine wine: It just gets better with age. One of Robert Sterns “Paradise Planned” communities in America – thanks to the Houston-Woodward family. Will
Thanks for your comment, Will! I learned a bit about the Houston-Woodward family’s role in town while I was visiting – such an interesting history!
Katie: You have experienced the “Chestnut Hill Spirit” Be careful: Its contagious and there is no cure!!!!! Will Detweiler
I can imagine that will be the case – I’m already planning a return trip for later this year!
Katie: Let us know when you are going to visit again. We’d enjoy entertaining you. My wife is a former President of the CH Historical Society and I’m a past president of the CHCommunity Association now involved with the preservation and renovation of the Woodward Community Centre.
Thank you so much, Will (and Susan!). That’s very kind of you.
Love the article. Chestnut Hill is as you describe. After 10 years of looking – the last 2 of which we actually rented in the area, we finally got a place, right by pastorius park. 🙂
Although it is a secret villiage, buying real estate here is as competitive (or more) than most historic towns (Georgetown, Annapolis, Beacon Hill, Haddonfield etc.) the inventory is extremely limited and properties rarely come onto the market. When they do they are super expensive.
Chestnut Hill has been preserved from over development – but it’s a constant battle. Builders are constantly attempting to buy land, tear down historically significant mansions, build cheap structures with neon signs etc. but there are many neighbors and residents that care about the hill and fight back.
What makes Chestnut Hill such an amazing place needs to be mentioned – Thanks to the efforts of the Chestnut Hill Historical Society / Conservancy, Chestnut Hill Civic Association, Friends of Pastorius, Friends of the Wissihicken, National Land Trust, the Houston / Woodward family, the Chestnut Hill Business Association, and many concearned and active residents.
I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed the blog post!
How wonderful to live right on Pastorius Park! I loved the homes along the park, it was such a beautiful spot. It’s good to hear that the community works hard to protect the town. Chestnut Hill is such a lovely place, it would be such a shame if its character was lost.
Thanks, Katie! What a delightful article! I am a manager of 3 apartment buildings in Chestnut Hill and we have residents who have stayed for years – it is such a vibant community and just a short trip to Chestnut Hill College, the hiking trails, and as always, the shops that make the community whole. The Weaver’s Way Co-Op is a treasure, as are restaurants such as Mica, Hoka Hoka, Osaka . . . You can get anything you want in Chestnut Hill! We would love to meet you on your next trip back. Safe journeys on your future trips
Thanks Cynthia – glad to hear you enjoyed it! I’ll definitely be making a return visit later in the year 🙂
Hi Katie ,
I enjoyed reading your article! What a great community we live in and I am so proud to work in too. You took great pictures along your journey; one being of bread from Paris (the Raisin Walnut Baguette ). That loaf is from Baker Street which is located at 8009 Germantown Ave down the street down the street from Paris Bistro. Stop on by and visit us next time your in town. Our new bread café should be up and running by the fall .
Thanks Katie! I’ll definitely stop by the bakery the next time I’m in town – which hopefully will be sometime soon!
Nice article. But, isn’t Chestnut Hill part of the City of Philadelphia??
It is indeed, as I mention in the third paragraph 🙂