Sunday in Lewis and Harris has quite the reputation.
In 2009, the Financial Times called the island “the last repository of stern and overwhelming Presbyterianism in Britain.” The Telegraph has referred to it as an “extraordinary outpost of Sabbatarianism.” The Guardian recently claimed that local religious attitudes ban “work and play on Sundays on religious grounds”
It seems no article or TV programme on the islands can be published without a mention of Sunday, with it always referred to as “the Sabbath,” a phrase I’ve personally never heard anyone other than a minister use.
The way the island Sunday is often portrayed in the media could give you the impression that there is absolutely nothing to do here on the seventh day of the week – and that if you dared attempt any kind of ‘fun’, you’d face the wrath of hardline, church-going islanders.
In 2017, however, that’s simply not true.
As someone who grew up in Lewis in the Nineties, it wasn’t true for me back then, either. I spent my Sunday mornings at Sunday School in a pair of jeans, and my Sunday afternoons at the play park with friends, where the gates were not locked, and the swings were not chained. Sunday here is not a black or white, either-or situation.
Maybe it was the case in days gone by – historically, the island has been traditionally Presbyterian – but we are living in the 21st century, not the 19th. When it comes to reporting of any kind on the Outer Hebrides, though, you could be mistaken for thinking otherwise; as I’ve written before, old-school stereotypes still abound.
While it’s in no way as extreme as the stereotypes suggest, Sunday in Lewis and Harris is still unique in some ways.
The majority of shops still close their doors. Some people go to church, and some people don’t. No public buses operate, but the airport and ferry terminal are open. Flights and ferries come and go throughout the day, taking people to and from the Scottish mainland.
Quiet Sundays with limited shopping hours are common in other parts of continental Europe, and even parts of the USA, but for some reason it causes a frenzy when people learn it happens in these Scottish islands. The double-standard has always mystified me.
Personally, I love the fact that Sunday in Lewis and Harris means guaranteed family time – none of us will be working – and that we can relax and spend time together, maybe over a traditional Sunday roast with Yorkshire puddings (my favourite), or on a walk on the beach or a scenic drive to another district.
For visitors to Lewis and Harris, though, the mixed messages can be confusing.
What’s open? What’s closed? Where can you eat? What can you actually do on a Sunday?
The answer is: “more than you might expect.”
For starters, no-one is going to go hungry. Most of the fast food takeaways are open, and If you’re looking for Sunday lunch or an evening meal, there are plenty of sit-down options available too. Restaurants like HS-1, The Boatshed, Eleven, Solas, and the Harbour View Restaurant are all open in Stornoway. Outside of the town, you can enjoy a meal at Doune Braes Hotel on the West Side of Lewis, or at the Temple Café in Harris, located right by the beach.
If a full feast isn’t what you’re looking for, snacks and other essentials can be bought at Engebret’s Filling Station (where you can also fill up your car with petrol), and at the Blackhouse Bakery, both in Stornoway. Coffee and light lunches are available at the café in the recently renovated Lews Castle, and you can even – gasp! – enjoy a drink at the bar overlooking Stornoway Harbour.
After you’ve had your fill of food and drink, you can go outside and explore the place you’ve come to see. You can do that with a walk through the leafy Lews Castle Grounds, designed and planted in the 1850s, or through the Aline Community Woodland, also part of the Hebridean Way. You can hike up through the Harris hills, or take it easy with a stroll on one of the many (many) beaches, some of which have been voted among the best in the world.
And if the weather isn’t cooperating, as was the case when my Sunday walk on the beach was recently thwarted? Return to the Lews Castle, pull up a chair in the meticulously restored 19th century ballroom, and spend a while listening to some beautiful acoustic live music, organised weekly by local musician Neosa.
For me, the idea of Sunday in Lewis and Harris is simple.
Whatever your religious inclinations – whether you’ve never stepped foot in a church, or sit in a pew every week – Sunday here is a day for relaxing. In fact, I’d venture to say that it’s relaxing in a way that’s difficult to find elsewhere.
Elsewhere (and I speak from experience), it can be tempting to leave all your weekly chores and food shopping until the last minute – or in other words, until Sunday, leaving little time to recharge before the alarm goes off again on Monday morning before work.
To anyone who happens to be visiting Lewis and Harris on a Sunday, I say this: make the most of it. Make the most of a day where the pace is slower, and doing nothing isn’t frowned upon. Whether you do that by sleeping in and lounging around your holiday rental in your pyjamas, taking a walk on a quiet beach, or going out for a leisurely coffee or Sunday lunch, the choice is entirely up to you.
Enjoy a relaxing Sunday in Lewis and Harris, and then go out and let everyone else know they were wrong about it all along.
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Have you ever experienced Sunday in Lewis and Harris? Let me know in the comments below – I’d love to hear your thoughts!
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More stories from the Outer Hebrides:
21 Must-Have Travel Experiences in the Outer Hebrides
The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide
On Travel Writing and Stereotyping the Outer Hebrides
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We didn’t come to Lewis&Harris for shopping (well, apart from many metres of Harris Tweed and some bottles of Gin …) but to enjoy nature, and they don’t close that on Sundays! We were informed by our landlord that shops would be closed on Sunday, so we got groceries for the weekend at Ullapool before the ferry left on Saturday evening. We didn’t want to drive all the way to a restaurant in Stornoway (we had a lovely house at Breasclete) so we just cooked dinner. In Switzerland, where we live, stores are closed on Sundays, with the exception of filling stations and some bakers that open in the morning for fresh breakfast breads. Many Restaurants and Cafés are open and public transport works. Most museums etc. are open as well. I like the idea of one day without shopping, there are so many other things to do!
Thanks for your comment, Francesca! I feel the same way. Although I haven’t been to Switzerland, I’ve noticed in France, Italy, etc that shops are shut on Sundays, too, and I think it’s so nice to have a day that’s guaranteed to be more relaxing than the rest. (And I’m glad you enjoyed your time in Lewis and Harris – gin and Harris Tweed are a must!).
Loved reading your article about Lewis & Harris. Sounds like a perfect place. We’re from Toronto, Canada (everything’s always open on Sunday). Hustle hustle 24/7. Sounds idyllic with the majority of places closed on Sunday. Reset for the week while spending quality time alone or with loved ones. In a fast pace world sounds perfect!!
We’ve been to Scotland 2 summers in a row. Explored the highlands by bike. Inverness to Fort William (2017), Pitlochery to Sterling (2016). Edinburgh both times. An amazing country!! Each trip was fantastic from the breathtaking scenery to the people. We will return and when we do Lewis & Harris will be included. Hopefully by bike!!
Thanks for your article. Look forward to reading more about Scotland.
Jan
Thanks for your lovely comment, Jan 🙂 Your two trips to Scotland sound great (I love Pitlochry!). If you enjoyed cycling through the Highlands then I think you’d like a visit to the Outer Hebrides. A new Hebridean Way walking and biking path was launched last year, so you can now bike the whole length of the islands – it sounds like something you would like!
Hi. We were in Lewis yesterday.
We did struggle to get lunch – travelled from Uig eastwards to find a cafe for lunch. Checked google – went to HS 1 – we waited 30 mins for our lunch – complained paid £5.00 for 2 teas & left. They had a chance – but failed miserably.
Found a bakery called Plasterfield? Outside town ( need a car – closed at 4pm – excellent & busy!!
Petrol station closed at 4 pm – need to know for car hire.
Beautifully said could not have put it better myself however the swings were closed in my day but afternoons were spent watching and learning about nature either from the window or out in the castle grounds when Sunday school was finished , still love going back and finding that the peace and quiet is still to be savoured.
Thanks Sheila, I’m glad to hear you liked it. That’s one of my favourite things about home too – the peace and quiet 🙂
The Coffee shop / Chinese restaurant and takeaway on the right of your photo, the Golden Ocean, that’s also open on a Sunday
I’ve spent many holidays in Harris and Lewis and to be honest I find the Sundays a delight. Unlike the mainland where everything is open 24/7 there’s something really calming about the fact most people are having a day off. It does mean you need to be prepared but that’s not such a chore.
Thanks, Andy. I’m happy to hear you’ve enjoyed so many holidays in the islands (and that you enjoyed relaxing on Sundays, too!).
Brilliantly said, Katie
Thank you so much, Mairi!
Yes, there are ferries and planes on a Sunday now. That happened in he 21st Century. When Sunday flights started there were protests (led by the wee frees)at the airport. When the Sunday Ferry was introduced, there were protests at the terminal (silent ones). Forecasts of damnation and the wrath of God etc. The planned blockade of the ferry by small boats was abandoned. The (council run) leisure centre is closed as are Tesco’s and the Co-op (all the others in Scotland are open on a Sunday.
What to do on a Sunday? Well doing the laundry is still frowned upon in some areas, as is washing the car (in public) and yes in the 21st Century there were some play parks still closed on Sunday.
The wee-frees and their fundamentalist religion still rule the WI and the Council.
Aren’t you a sensitive soul – you don’t do things because they’re ‘frowned upon’? The Wee Frees obviously don’t have to work too hard to get you to fall into line!
Have you ever thought that the people you refer to in this way are actually just standing up for their own cherished beliefs? You view Christians negatively, but try thinking of this another way: it’s not about opposing what you want, it’s about preserving what we have already.
Oh, and the council is elected in precisely the same way as every other in Scotland. I wonder if we’re getting a few Christian councillors elected because the voters choose them. Or is there some more sinister force at work here?
I’m with you there, Catriona Murray
2015 stayed on Lewis and Sunday was brilliant we took out time getting up had breakfast in our rental. We then did a steady drive to church at Back ( we wanted to experience a free Church of Scotland service in Gaelic) it was such an experience one I shall never forget but then I’m used to going to my hometown Pentecostal church and wow what a difference. We then headed backwards to our rental for a light lunchbof smoked salmon and oatcakes then a tour around the island we we did pass Ethiopia beach and there’s a kiddies play area there and the gate was locked and a sign on it saying it was observing the sabbath. We then had an evening meal at friends in Knockaird ( a work connection never met before but this is their home and we were made to feel most welcome and extremely well fed)!! It was so lovely to have a quieter Sunday to home in fact best day of our week. We discovered standing stones cairns and all kinds of flora and fauna. And of course not forgetting the locals who in someways caused a traffic jam- by locals I mean Sheep!!! Can’t beat the isles of Lewis and Harris and Stornaway is pretty much business as usual on a Sunday that’s if your prepared to drive across there if your not staying nearby we stayed in Siabost, but enjoyed a trip up to the Butt of Lewis and walking around. Highly highly recommend this area
Thanks Hazel – I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed your visit to Lewis (and on Sunday, too!).
Well said. Sundays are precious and there’s no feeling like the feeling of a Sunday at home. <3
Thanks so much Rachel 🙂 There really is no feeling like the feeling of a quiet Sunday at home! It’s definitely something I appreciate when I get home.
We spent a week on Lewis in August. Our Sunday morning was spent on Garry Beach, Tolsta and then we had a lovely lunch at HS1. There was something lovely about most places being closed. Family time is so important when we all live such busy lives. We loved our Sunday on Lewis ?
Thanks Linda! I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed your visit to Lewis. Your Sunday sounds quite similar to how mine usually turn out when I’m home – time on the beach, and then a big lunch either at home, or at HS1!
Well said, Katie. It is tiresome to read these lazy stereotypes again and again. However, the media aren’t entirely to blame – there are people living in Lewis who wilfully misrepresent the island they claim to love. The hacks who come looking for an ‘oh, aren’t they backward’ story will always find someone who, for the sake of their own agenda, will say what they want to hear. Your blog is great – keep at it.
Thanks so much for your comments and support, Catriona, I really appreciate it 🙂
There’s a brilliant Nomad Podcast recently posted in which the theologian Walter Brueggemann discusses Sabbath as resistance to the business world’s relentless 24/7 ideology and its exploitation of the powerless. Kind of puts a whole different slant on the thing.
http://www.nomadpodcast.co.uk/walter-brueggemann-sabbath-resistance-n152/
Thanks so much for sharing this with me, Alastair – it sounds fascinating. Will definitely give it a listen!
We maintain a free list of Hebridean businesses who welcome Sunday custom seasonally and all year round.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/oosdir/
Well it’s Sunday now on Lewis, the car broke down and we missed the ferry 🙁 Am I worried, nah, managed to extend the cottage let an extra day, fixed the car and will now ‘just chill’ after a pretty ‘busy’ holiday. I live on Raasay and it’s pretty much the same there. For many years I employed a local man to skipper my boat whilst I went clam diving. It really peeved me that he wouldn’t work on ‘the Sabbath’, for all of two weeks. After that I got to really enjoying my Sunday’s for the first time in decades. The playing fields may not be chained and padlocked on Raasay either but there is a pretty obnoxious sign saying ‘DO NOT USE THESE PLAYING FIELDS ON SUNDAY’ and that I do not like.
I’m sorry to hear about your car troubles, Paul, but glad to hear you were able to stay an extra day and relax 🙂 I do enjoy a relaxed Sunday myself. Hope you enjoyed the rest of your visit, too!
Car sorted Katie, had a nice relaxing Monday, well apart from the mad rush from Uig to Sconser to catch the last ferry to Raasay. Back at work now planning the next visit to Harris, Lewis and St Kilda 🙂
Hi,
I am all for a relaxed Sunday but we are staying in B&Bs in Harris, so cant cook for ourselves. Is Tarbert the only place where we will be able to get something to eat?
Hi Margaret! Your best bet is to check with the B&B owners, but as far as I know the Hotel Hebrides bar/restaurant is open on Sundays in Tarbert, as is the Temple Cafe in Northton. Hope that helps!
We actually changed our plans and stayed on Uist an extra day. We LOVED our trip through the Outer Hebrides and found that most islands would have somewhere to eat on a Sunday. On Harris, outside of Tarbert the options are very limited, and if you want to relax, rather than drive single track roads at night, it is a problem. No, our B&B didn’t do meals. Next time we would go self catering and have a relaxing eat in on Sunday.of al, The islands we found Barra and Eriskay most relaxing and easy for travellers.
So glad to hear you loved your holiday in the islands! 🙂