“It says it’s doable for anyone of moderate fitness levels,” I said to my husband, looking at the guide to Taipei’s Elephant Mountain on my phone. “I should be fine.”
These were famous last words for someone whose idea of a good time is reading a book while enjoying a chocolate biscuit. Maybe I should have realised that climbing part of a mountain – even one with steps carved into its foothills – would require more physical effort than I was accustomed to.
It didn’t help that we had already been up and about for hours by then, thanks to jet lag. It was our first full day in the Taiwanese capital: we’d visited the observation floor at the country’s tallest building, Taipei 101, when the doors opened that morning, and had walked leisurely through the backstreets of the Xinyi neighbourhood afterwards, ambling in the general direction of the base of the mountain.
Plants hung out of nearly every window and off every balcony, and the geometric shapes of Taipei 101 appeared around corners and above rooftops before disappearing again. We stopped for lunch on the way, and as we got closer to the Xiangshan trailhead, the streets began to slope slightly, a preview of what was to come.
Taipei is surrounded by lush mountains, and Elephant Mountain (or Xiangshan Mountain) is just one peak on the ridge that curves around the south-eastern edge of the city.
One of “Four Beasts” (Elephant, Lion, Leopard, and Tiger) on the Nangang Mountain ridge, Elephant Mountain is so-called because of the way it looks like the reach of an elephant’s trunk from above, creeping into the concrete. It’s also one of the most popular hikes in the city, thanks to its accessibility – the trail begins in a residential neighbourhood – and its views of Taipei 101.
It was already busy by the time we arrived in the early afternoon, and while I might not have been energetic, I was enthusiastic as I tackled the first part of the hike, a steep climb of hundreds of stone steps that leads to the first viewing area. Little children spend past me in both directions, and at one point a grandmother with walking poles overtook me. Still, I soldiered on – I was determined to see these skyline views!
Luckily, the views were more than worth the effort. From Elephant Mountain, the city looked like it was growing out of the greenery, Taipei 101 dominating the landscape and drawing the eye.
The famed skyscraper seemed almost close enough to touch, and dwarfed the buildings around it. Even on a cloudy day, mountains were visible on the opposite side of the city, wisps of mist and cloud hovering at their summits.
We kept going, from the first viewing platform at “Photographer’s Lookout” up to the “Six Giant Boulders” that crowd around the path 600 steps up from ground level. From there, we cut sideways to the much quieter “Fireworks Lookout” platform, where we came across a spider bigger than my husband’s hand (I gave it a wide berth), and even more stunning views of the city.
At times, the vegetation on the trail was so dense it felt as if we were in a tunnel. Taiwan’s climate is mostly subtropical, and the island is home to animals and plants you can’t find anywhere else. It was unsurprising, then, that we didn’t recognise most of the nature surrounding us, although a quick search on our phones later told us we’d seen the likes of Chinese Rain Bells, Kauri Trees, and Jungle Velvets.
The Elephant Mountain hike is actually part of a much wider network of trails that snake through these hills, but for the most part we kept to the main path.
We could have climbed higher to the top, where the views are meant to be even better and there are hidden temples, but jet lag was getting the better of us (and let’s be honest, I’d already done about a week’s worth of exercise in one day).
Back at ground level, it was as if we’d returned from another world, trees and leaves giving way once again to concrete and apartment blocks. That was part of the magic of Elephant Mountain though, and in many ways, Taipei itself: the heady mix of two worlds colliding, of buzzing city streets and lush greenery coexisting side by side. The hike was worth it for the views, yes – but our subtropical forest adventure made it even better.
NEED TO KNOW
How do I get to the Elephant Mountain trailhead? What I loved about Elephant Mountain is that it feels as if it is right in the heart of the city: one minute you’re strolling past apartment buildings and cafes, and the next you’re in front of the trail steps, surrounded by trees. Most guides will tell you to walk from the Xiangshan metro station, which is 10-15 minutes away from the trailhead. We walked from Taipei 101, as we wanted to see more of the Xinyi District on the way (and had an excellent lunch at Wei Mei Breakfast Restaurant on Zhuangjing Road before our climb, too).
How difficult is the climb? Honestly, the guide I read the morning of our climb is right: while the steps are steep and there’s nowhere to take a break in the first section, the steps are paved and in good condition with a handrail on one side, so it should be doable for most people in good physical health. If you’re not stopping to take photos (or rest!) like I was, the climb can take as little as 20-30 minutes.
What should I bring to hike Elephant Mountain? Even in winter (we visited in December 2023), it was warm and humid, so make sure you have plenty of water, and insect repellent if you want to avoid mosquito bites.
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