I had heard horror stories about the road to Huisinis.
“It’s a dreadful road.”
“I’ve only done it once.”
“Don’t drive there on your own.”
Admittedly, that last warning may have had more to do with my driving skills than the state of the single track road that branches off from the A859, which leads south through the Isle of Harris, but still: I had never taken the chance and turned that corner.
That was until I had an accomplice (who was also, crucially, willing to drive). One gloriously sunny spring day, my brother and I set off for Huisinis, the sandy reward at the end of the infamous road. We set off early – you never know if the sunshine will last in the Outer Hebrides – and made up for our early start with a detour to the Harris Distillery for warm scones, cream, and jam to keep us going through the day.
The road to Huisinis is indeed a difficult one; even I could tell that from my viewpoint in the passenger seat. It’s also beautiful, winding up and down hills and around blind corners, with a different dramatic view awaiting you each time.
There are wide glens reaching out into the Harris hills, and vantage points across the still waters of West Loch Tarbert and the Sound of Taransay.
We spotted piles of cut peat drying by peat banks, numerous sheep attempting to claim right of way, and eagles circling in the skies high above us.
Houses are few and far between on the road to Huisinis, but one stands out among the rest – and it’s not a house. It’s a castle. Amhuinnsuidhe Castle has been run as a sporting estate for most of its 151 years, offering fishing, field sports, and high-end accommodation. The mother of the original owner, Lady Catherine, was even involved in encouraging the early Harris Tweed industry.
We stopped by the waterfall in front of Scottish Baronial-style building for some photos, before carrying on our journey – we could see rain clouds over Taransay, and didn’t want them to reach Huisinis before we did.
In the end, we needn’t have worried.
After tackling a few more bends in the road and hair-raising blind summits, we rounded a corner and there it was: a strip of sparkling white sand hemmed in by small rocky, heathery hills, and fringed by just three isolated houses.
I felt a twinge of jealousy directed towards the owners of these three houses by the beach; their gardens weren’t even marked, just open onto the sandy machair. Imagine waking up to that every morning, I thought (a thought that was quickly followed by the realisation it would mean tackling that road every day).
The sand on the beach was untouched, save for the footprints of some small bird and the work of the waves.
Out across the water, seemingly far away, sat Luskentyre, Taransay, and the headlands of south Harris. Behind us was machair, and over the hill, more breathtaking rural beauty.
Once we caught our breath from the short climb (and regained our balance from jumping over boggy patches of moss), we simply stood and stared at the panorama of the Harris hills giving way to the hills of Uig in Lewis.
In the foreground sat the tiny uninhabited island of Scarp, where the ill-fated rocket post between Scarp and Harris was attempted in 1934; we could just make out the handful of homes that still stand on the rocky ground.
I stood amazed, both at the scenery and the fact that it had taken me almost thirty years to make my way to this corner of the island. Yes, the road to Huisinis is an unusual one: but tackling the winding road is worth it for the enchanting place of wild beauty waiting at its end.
____________________
Have you ever postponed visiting somewhere because it was difficult to get to, like Huisinis? What was it like when you finally made it?
Let me know in the comments below – I’d love to hear from you!
If you enjoyed this story, you’ll find more travel tales from the islands in my Outer Hebrides Travel Guide.
Stop these posts – I wanna go to the Outer Hebrides already!!! 😀
Haha that’s the goal, Kathi 🙂 Hopefully you get out there soon! I’ve been really enjoying your Scottish travel tales, by the way!
Well go my dear !!
I absolutely loved you taking me back to the beautiful Hebrides. I first went there on my own two years ago – for two weeks on North Uist. I took a day trip over to Harris, and on a blisteringly blue sunny day drove my open-topped mini all along the Golden Road and thought I was in heaven! I vowed to come back some day, which I did last year to celebrate my 70th birthday. My best friend came with me and we stayed in a beautiful cottage in Luskentyre for a week before going to North Uist for another week. We had to drive up to Stornaway to collect my camera that I had left on the plane. It had to be flown from Inverness to Stornaway (at quite a cost!), but it gave us the opportunity to see more of these wonderful islands.
I live way down in the Midlands in England and it makes me very sad to think that perhaps I won’t be able to go to the Outer Hebrides again as it is such a long way to drive. Though of course there are always aeroplanes and hiring a car! The landscape up there is something you never ever forget. Stunning and thought-provoking, there are not enough adjectives to describe how sublimely wonderful it is. I ,look forward to hearing more of your travels Katie!
Thanks for your lovely comment, Jennie! Those sound like two wonderful trips. I love the idea of driving the Golden Road in an open-top mini, that must have been fabulous! Hopefully you’ll be able to make it back to the islands – it doesn’t take too long on the plane, now 🙂
hi Katie – I wonder if you could perhaps give a bit more detail on in what way exactly the road is difficult? wasn’t sure – is it the actual condition of the road itself? or the hills and bends? may be going that way next year.. thanks
Hi Sue! The condition of the road itself is fine, it’s just the route it takes that is tricky – lots of blind summits and sharp corners, all on a single track road. Tackling it is all part of the fun though, and the views on the way are beautiful 🙂
Ah, that sounds very manageable to me! don’t mind those – it’s the huge holes and bumps that would bother me, as my Mini is quite low-slung. I don’t mind going slow to survive the sharp and blind. 🙂
Katie.,..,..this scenery is breathtaking, I also would love to live in one of these houses right on the beach. So glad you were able to go there and share with us, Thanks so much.
Wouldn’t it be lovely to live there, Christine? So peaceful (except maybe in the winter!). I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed the post!
Great drive to a beautiful beach. Well worth it. Though did get slightly confused as the road got near the castle. Wasn’t sure which way to go
It was a bit confusing there, Scott – you feel as if you’re entering private property! I’m glad you thought the drive was worth it too 🙂
Hi Katie,hope you are well. I enjoy reading your stories. My b&b is getting busy now. The weather’s still cold here.
Regards
Margaret
Hi Margaret! So lovely to hear from you, and great to hear that the B&B is getting busy 🙂 We had a great time staying with you! Hopefully the weather warms up soon. I need to visit again in the summer sometime!
We loved staying with you. looking forward to the trip this year again. Can’t wait to take in all the scenery
Was on that long and winding, wonderful road some 44 years ago (our daughter was only a baby of 1 year) we stopped at the castle for a break and have a recollection of seeing lots of fish in the small stream that runs close by. Then onwards to that beautiful beach you talk of. We had it to ourselves!!
The year was 1972, the summer was wonderful and the sun shown throughout our two weeks holiday.
We stayed in a caravan in Drinishader on a croft. We left the nappies hanging on the washing line the first Saturday we arrived. When we returned in the evening, the elderly mother from the croft had neatly folded the nappies in case we were thinking of leaving them out on the Sunday.
We were invited into the croft for home made crowdie. I was taken fishing on the son’s little dingy. We caught a lot of fish, kept enough for ourselves and the rest was distributed locally.
We were also taken over to visit the son’s in-laws on Scalpay on the same little dingy – not a life jacket in sight mind you!, and were invited to stay for lunch. Another great experience.
We have so many, many happy memories of that year and have been fortunate to have returned to the Islands many times since.
We are indeed fortunate to stay in the most beautiful country in the world,,
(No bias here!)
Thanks so much for sharing your memories of Harris, Eric! That sounds like a truly wonderful holiday 🙂 And I’m delighted to hear you’ve returned since then! We really are lucky to have such beautiful places right on our doorstep.
So, would you recommend going up the road in a motor home? Cos’ that’s what I’d planned on doing….
I can’t say for sure – I didn’t even drive the car myself! – but someone on Twitter told me they drove to Huisinis in a camper van, so it must be okay! Whatever you’re driving in, definitely best to take it slowly 🙂
Wonderful post and pictures, thank you. I’m visiting Scotland for the first time next week and taking in Edinburgh, the Moray firth, Inverness, Loch Ness, Fort William and then Stirling. I can already see I’ll have to make a return trip!
Thanks so much for your kind words about the blog post, Helen 🙂 It sounds like you have a fantastic holiday in Scotland ahead of you!
Hi. I have just come back from two weeks on Barra, Harris and Skye. Having travelled widely over the years in four continents, I have no doubts that Harris is the best place on earth. Whatever the weather the scenery and the colours as fantastic and the people are so friendly. Already planning next year’s trip. Favourite places are Luskentyre, Husinis, Traigh Mellein and al the golden road.
Hi Jenny, and thanks so much for commenting! It makes me so happy to hear that out of everywhere you’ve been, Harris is your favourite place 🙂 (I have to admit it’s one of mine too!) Great to hear you’re heading back again next year!
Wow that looks beautiful and 100% worth the hard drive! It’s funny for me and the Brit it’s always the opposite, we have high hopes that it’ll be quick until we get to the road and realise it’s gonna take forever. We did that last year when we went to Mull and we were like – google says it’s 2h drive on the B road….no it was 6 hours of terror with blind peaks, and sheer cliff drops. lol we learned our lesson!
Wow that Mull drive sounds intense! The beach was definitely worth the drive (which I enjoyed anyway because I ws in the passenger seat haha!).
been twice to the places you mention in my camper some years ago and got through OK, – just took it very slowly at the blind summits!
However, we have a new bigger motorhome now so trying to remember if the roads will be suitable. It is 19ft long and 8ft 4in wide including wing mirrors. Is it worth taking a chance? Can’t remember any road restriction signs.
I think it’s definitely worth taking the chance, Martin. I don’t think you’ll have any trouble – just take it slowly, as you say! I’m not the most confident driver, so that’s why it seemed so daunting to me 🙂
I love your blog…. can’t wait to read more. I want to go to isle of Harris to purchase a beautiful bottle of the gin….. Thank you for letting the world know….
Thank you so much Cyn! I definitely recommend visiting Harris, for the gin, but also for the beaches, the history, the culture – the lot!
We were there 2 weeks ago. There is a new edition of a fancy weatherproof wooden building just by the car park now. It has toilets, showers(£1), indoor and outdoor picnic areas plus information on the local area. We went on a very cold day and the building was great to go into for warmth after a brisk walk!
Ooh that sounds great! I’ll have to check that out next time I’m at home and make it over to Huisinis 🙂
Was brought up in Amhuinnsuidhe, so very familiar with the Huishnish road. I know that i am biased, but having travelled many places around the world, it is my favourite place on the planet. Who needs Alton Towers when you have experienced the road to huishnish !!! It’s not that bad to be fair, but you need to have your wits about you. The beaches at Huishnish are amazing, and then Traigh Mheilein, opposite Scarp, is STUNNING—everyone raves about Luskentyre…but no comparison in my opinion. The Island of Scarp is also at the end of that road…so much history associated with that beautiful island…..just love it.
Thanks so much for your comment Lena! It’s definitely one of the most beautiful places int he world, I completely agree! I’ve heard of Traigh Mheilein – I think we caught a glimpse of it from Huisinis? – but I’ve never been. Is it tricky to get to? I’ll need to add it to my “to do” list for the next time I’m at home 🙂