We were about to turn around and drive back along the Uig road the way we’d come when we spotted the sign.
“Access to beach” was neatly painted on a piece of old wood, with an arrow pointing in the direction of what looked like someone’s garden. There was a glimpse of tantalising teal-coloured ocean beyond the headland, but surely there wasn’t a beach there – surely my family and I would have heard of it if there was?
Uig, a district in the south west of the Isle of Lewis, is one that for me holds golden summer memories. You know the type of memories I’m talking about: the ones where it is always perpetually sunny and warm, where the days and weeks seem endless, a never-ending parade of childhood adventures.
Those memories for me are of the summers my family and I would spend a week in a caravan at Reef beach, paddling in the sea, “fishing” for minnows with child-size nets bought at the community shop in Timsgarry, and collecting shells in our little plastic buckets. I thought we knew all the beaches in the area, having spent so much time here on childhood summer holidays and school trips, but the village of Carnish, it turned out, had a surprise for us.
Intrigued, we decided to park the car overlooking Ardroil beach and walk back up towards the end of the road and the wooden sign, which seemed to be pointing in the opposite direction to any beach we could discern.
We passed through a gate, and followed a worn sheep track through the grass. It wasn’t until we crested a small hill that the beach came into sight – and what a beach! A perfect crescent of white shell sand, protected by a small curve of a headland and smaller islands offshore, all lapped by the most beautiful blue-green water I’d ever seen. Even here in the Outer Hebrides, where beautiful beaches are ten-a-penny, Carnish Beach took me completely by surprise.
I ignored the fact that this was Scotland in summer, and the fact that blue skies do not guarantee warm temperatures, and immediately stripped down to my swimming costume to run into the sea. And would you believe it, while I was frolicking in the waves, a flock of oystercatchers – one of my favourite birds – flew over my head. I almost laughed at the perfection of it all. Prevented from travelling to the Outer Hebrides for two years because of the pandemic, and on my return I was greeted with this? It felt meant to be.
As the afternoon wore on, a handful of other families arrived at the beach: children paddled, parents erected windbreakers (much needed, even in August), and a hardy individual or two went out on paddle boards. But on the whole, the beach was quiet – maybe because, like us, not that many people outside of the area knew it was waiting over the hill at the end of the road.
My family and I eventually headed back home to the other side of the island for our Sunday roast, but that afternoon on Carnish Beach has stayed with me.
Not just because of the beautiful sand, or the birds, or the cold water swimming, but because of the novelty of finding somewhere new-to-me in a place I’ve lived in and known my whole life. It just goes to show that a little bit of curiosity and tapping into that adventurous spirit of childhood summers can bring unexpected results – and create even more golden memories to look back on, too.
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What a beautiful story, Katie. And what a beach! As you say, beautiful beaches are everywhere in the Hebrides, but even with that knowledge, I always found myself gasping whenever I turned a corner and looked down on the never-ending emerald and turquoise waters and white sands. It added to my sense of Nirvana that when I drove around the islands, every wild flower I could (never!) have dreamed of covered every dune as a sort of “God’s backdrop” to the colours of the sea. Never discovered Carnish, but wish I had! The oyster-catchers flying overhead would have been gorgeous. By the way, was the plane trip from America worrying when there was so much Covid about? Even being triple vaxed, it’s the thought of being crammed in a plane with so many others that stops me travelling now.
Thank you so much Marilyn 🙂 I’m happy to hear you enjoyed the beaches and scenery so much. I have to say I still sometimes get surprised myself at how beautiful the beaches are – even though I’ve grown up with them! (And as for travelling during the pandemic, the first flight was a bit nerve wracking just because I was so unused to it after so long, but everyone was masked and I got used to it again pretty quickly!)
Will definitely visit this beach when I’m in Lewis & Harris in May. Thank you to tell us about this gem!
Thanks Isabelle – I hope you had a wonderful trip!
Hi Kate
My grandparents lived in the house overlooking Carnish beach. Myself and my family were so lucky to spend every summer there, spending long lazy days on the beach (weather permitting) and exploring Ardroil sands on the other side. It truly is a hidden gem and my favourite beach in the world. I think the reason it remain so beautiful is that it has stayed largely untapped, and uncrowded. Selfishly I’m hoping it remains that way and will be a special moment for anyone who stumbles across it. So glad you had this experience and can understand why you would want to share it with everyone.
Thanks for your comment, Diana 🙂 Wow – I can imagine spending summers there growing up would have been amazing. I’d been to Ardroil so many times growing up myself but had never come across Carnish, it’s so well hidden!
Beautiful story <3 and what clear blue waters, too!
Thank you Sarah 🙂 The water really was incredible!
I’m so excited to be in Harris at the moment, after having my trip here cancelled in both 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic. Harris is as beautiful as ever and we also had a night in Stornaway, where your recommendations for eating places was very useful Katie. I did the Lews Castle parkrun which was a stunning route but too hilly for me!
I’m so happy to hear you got to visit again after your trip being cancelled! And delighted to hear you had a good time too 🙂
Carnish is my favourite beach. I have been visiting my pals in Lewis for over 20 years and this is my favourite beach. A bit off the beaten track but well worth the effort.
I can see why – it’s absolutely beautiful!
My family (10 of us) made a heritage trip to Lewis in 2016 that was just sensational. We saw just about every inch of it, including this lovely beach. Our ancestor left from
Uig in 1773, coming from the frying pan (the Highland clearances) into the fire of war. He fled to Nova Scotia to escape British press gangs, and later settled in North Carolina. We’re still proud of his survival skills and claim our Scottish heritage proudly
Thanks for your comment, Ann – I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed your trip to Lewis, and even managed to visit Carnish, too!
What a great post! We rented a cottage for a week and stayed very near to Carnish beach. The whole week we only ever saw two other people on that beach. It was heavenly, like having our own private beach, with just birds and seals for company. One of our favourite places and hopefully if we ever return it will be the same.
Thanks so much Jonathon! A week in a cottage near Carnish beach sounds wonderful 🙂 I’m sure it will be waiting for you just the same if you return!