A Coastal Walk to MacLeod’s Stone, Isle of Harris

For millennia it’s stood there, tall and solitary on the prow of the hill.

But for all its stature, it’s easy to miss. If you’re driving past on the road – south to the Leverburgh ferry, perhaps, or north to the main village of Tarbert – the chances are you’re not looking out into the distance across the beach to the Atlantic.

Maybe you’d spot the sign pointing seaward, the one in Gaelic next to the gate. Maybe you’d wonder what lies beyond, over the dunes, before carrying on your journey. And maybe one day you’d finally stop, like I did.

To tell you the truth, the sign had always piqued my interest. “MacLeod’s Stone” – how could a sign bearing my own name not cause some curiosity?

When I finally stopped and satisfied my curiosity it was late summer, but the air was damp, and the layered clouds of varying shades of grey threatened rain. Was it worth risking getting caught in a downpour? My parents and I decided to take our chances, parked the car in the narrow parking spot at the edge of the road, and made our way through the gate down to Niseabost beach, one of the many swathes of pearly sand on the west coast of the Isle of Harris in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.

The sand that day was different; not the usual pristine white, but a darker yellow, flecked with broken blue shells – mussels, I guessed – and strewn with strands of pink and red seaweed. Combined with the dark skies, it felt slightly odd for a summer afternoon, almost ominous. From here, MacLeod’s Stone looked insubstantial, nothing more than a slight mark on the hill. It was easy to see why it’s so often missed from the road.

When we reached the far end of the shore, we climbed up the sand dunes (a workout in and of itself), and tried to avoid the sting of half-dead thistles that framed the path. All of a sudden, from the top of the dune, the standing stone seemed to get larger and more imposing, brooding at the edge of the island.

MacLeod’s Stone, or Clach Mhicleoid as it’s called in Gaelic, is a prehistoric monument, a stone giant from Neolithic times.

According to the information display at the Talla na Mara community centre, it’s one of “a group of prehistoric ritual structures,” and the smaller rocks embedded in the ground nearby may be the remains of a burial cairn, but nobody knows for sure.

One local Gaelic legend has it that the stone is the remnant of a giant’s hammer, which split into three pieces when the giant tried to dislodge a limpet on the rocks at Niseabost. I liked the idea that the standing stone now covered in lichen and moss held a bit of mystery, a sense of intrigue. It felt like it belonged to the landscape itself, or maybe that nature was taking over, reclaiming what was once its own.

While my parents made their way back to the beach, I climbed higher, curiosity nagging at me again. What might be waiting at the top of the next hill? What was waiting was even better than MacLeod’s Stone: a breathtaking panorama of the west coast of Harris, stretching from the hills to the north, past the island of Taransay, the stone itself and out over Niseabost and Scarista beaches to the hill of Ceapabhal to the south. The dark skies only made it more dramatic. Encountering a prehistoric standing stone and one of the best views I’d seen of Harris was well worth the sprinkling of rain, which was now getting more insistent.

As the rain got heavier, I decided it was time to hurry back down towards the road.

It wasn’t a downpour, but it was heavy enough for someone in a light summer jacket. I passed a snipe by the water’s edge, its long, curved beak dipping down rhythmically for food beyond the line of seaweed. At the end of the beach, there was one other family, adults and children with boogie boards, chatting to my parents who were waiting for me to cross the length of the shore.

We closed the car door just in time to avoid the rain as the heavens really opened. At least I would no longer have to wonder what lay beyond the beach as I drove past; I’d know. I’d been there, to MacLeod’s Stone at the top of the hill, where the island is laid out before you like a painting. If you ever pass the sign in a hurry, maybe slow down, and if you have time, go and see the standing stone for yourself. You won’t regret it.

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NEED TO KNOW

How do I get to MacLeod’s Stone? There is room for one or two cars at a road-side parking space on the main road (A859) between Tarbert and Leverburgh in West Harris, opposite Talla na Mara. From there, you can walk easily across the beach, with a slight climb up the hill at the far end, from where the stone is clearly visible.

What do I need for the walk? We just did it in our regular trainers and clothes, although I made the rookie mistake of going out in the Outer Hebrides on a cloudy day threatening rain without an appropriate jacket! A decent sturdy pair of shoes, something waterproof (because you never know what kind of weather you’ll get, regardless of the forecast), and water is always a good idea, plus binoculars if you want to spot any birds or wildlife. If you take anything to eat or drink at the top of the hill, make sure to bring everything back with you, and leave no trace. (Remember that dogs must be kept on a lead at all times, too.)

What else is nearby? If you’re looking for something to eat, Talla na Mara community centre opposite Niseabost beach has a café/restaurant (as well as art exhibitions and a small gift shop), and just over the hill to the north there is often a burger van at the campsite at Horgabost, another beautiful beach with changing facilities and public toilets.

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IF YOU ENJOYED THIS, YOU MIGHT LIKE:

A Summer Walk to the North Harris Eagle Observatory

14 Useful Things to Know Before Visiting the Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

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Have you ever walked out to MacLeod’s Stone, or enjoyed a walk or hike in the Isle of Harris or wider Outer Hebrides? Let me know in the comments – I’d love to do more island walks, so please share your recommendations below!