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On Going Home Again: A Spring Visit to the Outer Hebrides

June 20, 2018 By Katie MacLeod 17 Comments

Bayble Island Isle of Lewis

I love watching the sunrise as I wake up in the morning, fresh cup of coffee in hand.

Usually I have a quick glance through the window at the light breaking over the Manhattan skyline, but for most of the last month I’ve watched the day begin over the Minch, the stretch of water that separates the Outer Hebrides from the Scottish mainland.

In a rare stroke of luck, that view was bathed in sunshine nearly every day of those three weeks. The unusual stretch of hot, sunny weather in May reminded me of summers as a child, when my brother and I would climb heather-filled hills playing adventure games, and go paddling at the beach armed with buckets and spades.

This spring was the first time Mr. Stories My Suitcase Could Tell had seen the Outer Hebrides in the sunshine (not to mention the first time he’d experienced midges!), and what a difference it made. We were able to explore the island, hike through the moor, visit the croft at Air an Lot, and even go swimming one day, the weather was that wonderful.

It’s been nearly four years since I moved to the USA, and I’m beginning to learn that no matter how long your visit home – I was in the UK for three weeks this time – there is never enough time to see all the people you would like to.

With the ones you do manage to see, however, the conversation and laughter flows as if you saw each other yesterday. This time the catch-ups were spread across the country: Lewis, Glasgow, Dunfermline, and the Lake District. There were road trips, dinner dates, outdoor games with four-year-olds, and even a wedding, set in the gorgeous surroundings of Armathwaite Hall and Bassenthwaite Lake.

(As an aside, I’m also learning that there’s never enough time to eat all the food you want to eat, either, unless you plan on returning a few sizes larger than when you left. While I had my fill of Stag bread, Stornoway black pudding, sausage rolls, and of course, Cadbury’s chocolate, I completely forgot to eat some potato waffles, and only managed fish and chips twice.)

Stornoway Harbour Outer Hebrides

Then there’s the task of dividing your time up between returning to old haunts and discovering somewhere new.

Bayble Beach, five minutes from my childhood home in Lewis, is always a must, as is a stroll through the Lews Castle Grounds, and a stop to admire the view over Seilebost beach. But the traveller in me sought out new destinations, too, which led to a hike up over the hills in Mangersta in Uig; a 2km walk to an eagle observatory in Harris, and a drive to the remote village of Rhenigidale.

On the mainland, it involved a stroll through Glasgow’s Merchant City as the sun set; and a morning spent delving into the rich royal history of Dunfermline in Fife. I may have had deadlines to meet, and homework to hand in, but I tried my best to make the most of the time I had in the Hebrides and further afield.

Now that I’m in my fourth year as a US resident and British expat, I’ve become used to this switching between countries and continents, slipping with ease from one life into another.

In some ways, though, it can still feel slightly disconcerting. One minute I’m paying in pounds, hearing accents like mine, and the next I’m reaching for dollars and subconsciously altering my accent in order to be understood (the two versions of English can make for some amusing encounters!).

As journalist Rosie Spinks, a dual British and American citizen, writes in her monthly newsletter, the switch is “a little bit confusing and melancholy, but always comforting. You feel both rooted and uprooted at the same time, which always takes getting used to. The trip has a beginning, middle, and an end, but it never feels over.”

When I leave, it always feels too soon.

These three sunny weeks passed in a flash, feeling more like three days; I almost can’t believe the trip I’ve been looking forward to for so long has been and gone already. But as Rosie notes, “if you’re lucky, when you head to the airport, you’re looking forward to going home – whatever that means.”

And I do count myself lucky: lucky to have loved ones in two locations, a lifetime of roots in one place and new shoots growing stronger in another. If home is where the heart is, then I think it’s safe to say I’ve got two of them.

Seilebost Beach Isle of Harris

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Have you ever returned home after moving away? What was it like? Let me know in the comments below – I’d love to hear from you!

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WANT TO READ MORE?

10 British Foods I Miss As An Expat in the USA

Letter From America: My Translation Troubles As A British Expat

What Happens When An Expat Goes Home?

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Comments

  1. Gail says

    June 20, 2018 at 5:27 am

    We visited the Outer Hebrides last summer – so beautiful. Glad you had a lovely time back in the UK x

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:15 am

      Thanks Gail! I’m glad to hear you enjoyed your time there too 🙂

      Reply
  2. Marilyn says

    June 20, 2018 at 5:52 am

    Lovely story and pictures, Katie. I’m so glad the sun shone for you and Mr Suitcase while you were in the Hebrides. My heart leaps even as I look at the pictures of the fishing boats in the harbour and the great expanse of sand at Seilebost. I think I could even see the start of the wildflowers starting to bloom in one your photos! Not only are you very lucky to be so happy wherever your home is, but you are also aware of that good fortune. Long may it (and your stories) continue!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:16 am

      Thanks for your lovely comment, Marilyn! We had such a wonderful time in Lewis and Harris – and we were so lucky with the weather. The wildflowers were just starting to bloom when we were there, so they’re probably in full swing now!

      Reply
  3. David Currie says

    June 20, 2018 at 7:04 am

    Nothing like the look and ‘smell’ of the Minch. Speaking of which, as a Canadian living in the Province of Ontario, we recently became able to purchase the wonderful and unique Gin product from Isle of Harris Distillery. It’s uniqueness comes from the slight infusion of Sugar Kelp into the formula. However you enjoy your gin, one sip and you are transported to the shores of the Minch. No wonder it has vaulted to the top of the leader board amongst Scottish based gin producers.

    Reply
    • Marilyn says

      June 20, 2018 at 10:49 am

      I agree David. Bought a bottle last time I was in Harris and loved its unique taste. I wanted to buy some more but I live in NZ and the import duty was prohibitve so I just have to dream about it and try to remember how divine that gin was!

      Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:17 am

      You’re right, David – there’s nothing like it! Luckily I have two bottles of the lovely Harris Gin to remind me of home here in NYC 🙂

      Reply
  4. Melissa Silver says

    June 20, 2018 at 7:15 am

    This is so right! I’m heading home in a week for 4 weeks and I cannot wait – but I know it will go past in a flash! However, hopefully it will be easier to leave this time than it was after Christmas…! I doubt I will be so lucky with the weather – you lived the Hebridean holiday dream! X

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:18 am

      Aw thanks Melissa 🙂 Hope you’re having an amazing time at home – it looks like the weather has stayed nice for you! x

      Reply
  5. Pat says

    June 20, 2018 at 12:40 pm

    glad you enjoyed your trip,I was over at the same time as you, couldn’t believe how good the weather was. It’s great to go home and visit everyone although I must say it’s an easier and shorter journey for me than it is for you since I’m in lossiemouth . Here’s to the next time.

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:19 am

      Thanks Pat, glad to hear you enjoyed your visit too 🙂 The weather was incredible – I still can’t quite believe how good it was!

      Reply
  6. Clazz says

    June 21, 2018 at 2:24 pm

    Haha, potato waffles! I have a list of things to eat every time I go home to Orkney, too. So glad you had an amazing trip and that you lucked out with the weather – how often does that happen?! 🙂

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:20 am

      Weather like that is so rare – it was amazing! And I do love a good potato waffle haha 🙂 I have a long list of foods to eat when I’m home, but there’s never enough time for them all!

      Reply
  7. Angie says

    June 27, 2018 at 9:37 am

    Hi Katie,
    This is my 4th year living in New York too (I’m from Barcelona), and I can totally relate to this. Funnily enough, I was also in Lewis and Harris this past May and the weather was so wonderful. I’m glad I got to see the Outer Hebrides in the sun. I read and re-read all your articles before our trip and we loved every bit of it! Thanks for your work!

    Reply
  8. Katie MacLeod says

    July 7, 2018 at 11:27 am

    Thanks Angie, it’s always nice to hear from fellow expats who can relate 🙂 I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed the Hebrides (and that the blog posts were helpful to you!). You were so luck with the weather, too!

    Reply
  9. Allanmac says

    August 7, 2018 at 4:32 pm

    I love the idea that you married a man called Mr Suitcase!
    Although I haven’t moved as far as you have, and I probably get to return to my home more often than you do, I totally get that it’s never long enough.
    Edinburgh is a great city to live in, but it’s not my home and sadly I don’t think it ever will be.
    I’m glad you feel at home in both NYC and Lewis – they’re both wonderful (if very different) places.

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      August 10, 2018 at 3:16 pm

      Great to see you on here, Allan! Edinburgh is one of my favourite cities, but I know what you mean – if you have strong roots where you’re from originally, nowhere else quite comes close. It took a while but I’m definitely settled in NYC now. Since Lewis and NYC are so different, I like to say I’ve got the best of both worlds (or either end of the extreme!) in terms of environment!

      Reply

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I'm Katie, an expat Scot in the States, and the journalist behind Stories My Suitcase Could Tell, the travel blog which inspires you to explore the world. Read More…

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