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Notes on Going Home (Again): A Week in Lewis and Harris

March 9, 2017 By Katie MacLeod 18 Comments

Port of Ness pier

It was March 2016 when I first returned home to the Outer Hebrides, 18 months after moving to the USA and being prohibited from travelling. I expected the experience to be revelatory, and in the end it was, but not for the reasons I had anticipated. Returning again a year later, to spend a week in Lewis and Harris, I wondered what would have changed.

But then – as now – it felt as if I had never been away.

My morning still began with a coffee at the kitchen table, next to the window with views over the Minch to the mountains of the Scottish mainland. Toasted Stag Bakery bread was still my first choice for breakfast, if we weren’t making a pit stop at Café Rubh for a potato scone and black pudding roll on route to Stornoway.

I still stalled my Mother’s car at the roundabout, and still couldn’t resist popping into An Lanntair to check out the latest exhibition. I even spent a Saturday evening reliving my teenage years, listening to Willie Campbell singing in one of the local pubs, and remembering when my friends and I were the 18-year-olds dancing to Abba covers in front of the makeshift stage. (The nostalgia was so intense it felt almost physical.)

Of course, changes have taken place in my absence.

Babies have been born, vows have been made, new shops have opened and old ones have closed, but the laughter and conversation with family and friends (not to mention colleagues) is always there, as normal and fluid as if our time apart has been a day, not a year.

This year, though, one thing was noticeably different: the weather. Spending a week in Lewis and Harris in the depths of winter conjures up images of horizontal rain, gales, and cancelled ferries. To my surprise and delight, the sun was shining and the skies were blue every single day for a week. Seven straight days of sunshine! In February! (As you can see, I still haven’t quite got over my good fortune…)

Glorious sunshine meant I spent my days drinking in as much of the island as I could.

Driving north to Ness and south to Harris; walking in the Castle Grounds, visiting the new Museum nan Eilean, and strolling through Stornoway; not to mention eating all my favourite foods in Delights, 40 North, and the North Harbour Bistro.

As always, my visit felt too brief, my departure accompanied by the tinge of disappointment in knowing that I hadn’t seen even half the people or places I wanted to. But being more settled in my second home (hello, NYC!) means goodbyes are not quite as hard as they once were.

Besides, it’s not goodbye, but see you soon – I’ll be back in the Outer Hebrides in the summer, after all!

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Have you ever moved away from – or returned to – somewhere you call home? What was it like? Let me know in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!

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Want to read more?

What Happens When An Expat Goes Home?

On Leaving Home, and Loving the Hebrides

Why the Outer Hebrides is the Happiest Place in the UK

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Related

« A Week in Lewis and Harris – on Video!
My Weekend in the North of Scotland: Caithness, Sutherland, and the NC500 »

Comments

  1. A Lady in London says

    March 9, 2017 at 4:38 am

    I can relate to your experience. I moved from San Francisco to London in 2007 and the first few trips back felt really surreal. I’m heading to the Outer Hebrides in May and can’t wait to visit. I hope I get sunshine like you did in Feb!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      March 9, 2017 at 7:32 am

      Surreal is such a good way of describing it. I’m so excited to hear you’re going to the Outer Hebrides! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for sunshine for you… it’s always a bit hit or miss, at any time of year! And if you need any tips or ideas, just let me know!

      Reply
  2. Kylie N says

    March 9, 2017 at 5:41 pm

    I’ll be returning home in June and will be there for a total for 3 weeks, I have a feeling it’ll be exactly the same as your experience, feeling like I’d never left. It’s nice to hear that goodbyes get easier, I can only hope my experience is the same!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      March 12, 2017 at 9:57 am

      Aw you’ll be so excited about going home again! I think for me it was a bit easier not only because I’ve been away longer now (over two years – where has the time gone?!) but also because I have a set date when I’ll be going back, rather than a vague “hopefully I’ll get back within the next year” plan. I hope it gets easier for you, Kylie! I know it’s tough at first.

      Reply
  3. the Fashion Matters says

    March 14, 2017 at 7:23 am

    sounds amazing I would love to visit!

    THE FASHION MATTERS- Travel & Fashion blog

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      March 14, 2017 at 8:46 am

      I hope you get to visit sometime, Hadas!

      Reply
  4. Stephanie Craig says

    March 14, 2017 at 12:19 pm

    I went home for 3 weeks in December and January. I felt like I was watching paint dry sometimes. Glad your experience was a little more exciting!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      March 15, 2017 at 9:04 am

      Aw I’m sorry going home wasn’t what you hoped. For me at least, going home is always a highlight of my year 🙂

      Reply
  5. Clazz - An Orcadian Abroad says

    March 16, 2017 at 3:43 pm

    I recently returned home to Orkney, so I imagine very similar! The thing that struck me is how much nothing’s changed – a lot of my friends are still doing the same thing, in the same place. Islands are like places where time stands still, which is fine… but not for me! That said, I’m spending a bit of time here to recuperate from travelling and I’m REALLY enjoying exploring places that I took for granted before! So there’s that. 😀

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      March 25, 2017 at 9:03 am

      Ooh Orkney is high on my “to visit” list! I like that nothing changes in terms of family and friends – we’re still as close despite the distance (of time and geography!). Hope you enjoy your time at home!

      Reply
  6. Erin says

    March 20, 2017 at 5:04 pm

    Beautiful words, per usual. I can totally picture you stalling your mom’s car! ?

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      March 25, 2017 at 9:04 am

      Aw thank you Erin 🙂 And yes, stalling the car (and maybe mounting the kerb…) happened a few too many times haha!

      Reply
  7. Pascale NOBLE says

    April 2, 2017 at 4:17 pm

    Good evening Kathie,
    Very happy to discover what you wrote on the Hebrides ! Spent the afternoon reading all the pages. I’m a french woman, living in Lyon and I went in the Hebrides for the 1st time last year, travelling through Eriskay, the Uists, Lewis & Harris and Scalpay. I’ll come again may 2017, specially in Harris & Lewis. I fell in love with the lascapes, wildness, stunning beaches and warm hospitality !
    All you say is so true, thank you very much.
    May be we’ll cross our routes in the future in the Western Isles, who knows ?
    Pascale (Lyon, France)

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      April 11, 2017 at 8:19 am

      Hello Pascale, and thank you so much for your lovely comment! I’m so glad you enjoyed reading about the Hebrides here on the blog, and that you had such a good time visiting the islands too! I hope you have a wonderful trip there this year 🙂 Maybe our paths will cross there one day!

      Reply
  8. Jaime @angloyankophile says

    April 5, 2017 at 8:55 am

    This was a beautiful post, Katie. I’ve always wanted to visit the Outer Hebrides but still haven’t gotten around to it … a Scotland trip was at the top of our list this year but we still haven’t managed to book anything! Before we do, I might have to email you for some tips!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      April 11, 2017 at 8:27 am

      Thank you so much Jaime. If you do organise a Scotland trip, let me know – I’d love to help and share some of my favourite places with you!

      Reply
  9. Fabian says

    July 14, 2017 at 8:45 am

    Katie – I first visited Scotland in 2014, fresh out of school, and instead of going for the touristy mainland attractions, I dove headfirst into the enchanting world of the Scottish isles, with Islay being my destination of choice for a short week. Since then, I have been to Skye and many different places on the mainland, and Scotland has captured my heart fully. However, the Isles remain my favourite. They’re the places I dream of whenever I look out the window on a rainy day, their winds are the ones I reminisce about on a stormy autumn day… they never quite let you go once they have you! I have sometimes dreamed about leaving Germany behind and moving there, but with a wedding in two weeks and a child on the way, it’s looking less likely than ever (and I wouldn’t have it any other way!). I haven’t completely given up on it though. What do you think, would the Hebrides be a suitable destination for an expat given to romantic notions of living quietly, with a small house and a large garden…? And more importantly, do you realistically think two expats with a kid could make a reasonable living there? I much appreciate your response! 🙂

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      August 1, 2017 at 10:18 am

      Hi Fabian! Thanks so much for your comment. I think moving to the islands depends on your occupation, and what jobs are available at the time (although I do know of people who’ve moved there and set up their own small businesses!). It sounds like you’ve had no problem with the wind and the rain – which is important, as a lot of people only visit in the summer and aren’t prepared for the winter weather!

      Reply

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I'm Katie, an expat Scot in the States, and the journalist behind Stories My Suitcase Could Tell, the travel blog which inspires you to explore the world. Read More…

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