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How to Experience Gaelic in the Outer Hebrides

September 20, 2021 By Katie MacLeod 15 Comments

When you think of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, you might think of beautiful beaches, Harris Tweed, or gin distilleries.

But what makes visiting the Outer Hebrides truly unique is the Gaelic culture and language, giving the islands an identity which offers visitors an experience they won’t find anywhere else in the world.

The Outer Hebrides are the heartland of the Gaelic language, home to the largest number of Gaelic speakers in the UK. And while Gaelic is becoming more popular in other parts of Scotland, the Outer Hebrides is where you’ll find it spoken on a daily basis everywhere from the supermarket to the taxi queue.

As a Leodhasach (someone from the Isle of Lewis), I’m far from being a fluent Gaelic speaker myself, as Duolingo likes to remind me! But the language and culture is still a part of who I am. How could it not be?

I grew up surrounded by Gaelic. My Granny would chat away in Gaelic with her neighbours in the kitchen, or teach my brother and I Gaelic nursery rhymes. It’s my Dad’s first language, and when I was little, my parents would speak to each other in Gaelic when they talked about things that didn’t concern my brother and I as children – but of course, we were soon able to understand everything they were saying!

These days, I understand more of the language than I can actually speak it, although a few favourite phrases travelled with me when I moved to the USA. I have a particular fondness for Gaelic exclamations like Muirt Mhòr! Obh Obh! and Ò mo chreach! that even my American husband has picked up.

In that small way, I’ve brought a bit of the culture with me, just like the Gaels who’ve been emigrating from the islands for centuries did, taking the Gaelic language and culture with them to places like Australia, New Zealand, and North America.

Gaelic language signs

The language stays with you not just because it’s a part of you and your culture, but also because there are some feelings Gaelic can capture in a way that English simply can’t.

Cianalas is just one of those words, one that’s taken on even more significance for me as I’m living away from home. Cianalas roughly translates as “homesickness.” But the reality of the word is much stronger than that, more of a deep longing for the place where your roots lie – for the Outer Hebrides – that never really goes away. I’ve written before that no matter how far islanders travel, the Hebrides will always be home. “Homesickness” doesn’t even really come close to capturing the deep attachment to people and place that cianalas does.

And I think visitors can sometimes experience a small part of that feeling, too. How else to explain the way the Outer Hebrides gets under your skin as a visitor, making people return again and again, year after year, decade after decade?

And no matter your travel style, there’s a way to experience Gaelic in the Outer Hebrides. (Even if it’s something as small as trying out a few phrases at an island pub when you ask for a locally distilled G&T…!)

Gaelic is threaded through the culture of the Outer Hebrides in so many ways, from our stories to our songs, our place names to our food and drink.

As a melodeon player, I often relate to Gaelic most strongly in music. With the more traditional tunes, even when you don’t understand every word, you can grasp the feeling and emotion that runs through them. (Eilean Fraoich, the unofficial anthem of the Isle of Lewis, never fails to bring a tear to my eye.) Music, then, is an easy way to experience Gaelic while you’re on holiday in the islands, whether you’re at a pub in South Uist, a gig at An Lanntair in Stornoway, or in the big tent at the annual HebCelt Festival.

You can get a feel for Gaelic culture on a croft, too, as you learn about the traditional way of working the land that’s being carried on into the 21st century. (I found this out first-hand on the croft at Air an Lot in Ness, where you’re a guaranteed to see Gaelic in action, as the animals only understand Gaelic!)

You can enjoy a literal taste of it through food, like marag dhubh (black pudding), sgadan (herring), or a wee dram of uisge-beatha (whisky). You can’t miss it in the history, when you come across monuments to land raiders or the ruins of blackhouses. And you can connect to it in the landscape too, with a simple walk on the tràigh (beach) or a hike up a beinn (hill).

Lewis Blackhouse village

North Uist Distillery Gin

Uig Outer Hebrides beach

Whatever you’re looking for on a visit to the Outer Hebrides – a food-and-drink fuelled holiday, a week of outdoor adventures, or a deep dive into local history – you’ll find it all enriched by the Gaelic language and culture that weaves its way through almost every aspect of life.

As I’ve often said, the Outer Hebrides have so much more to offer than you might expect. When you visit them as Scotland’s Gaelic islands, there’s a whole new cultural and linguistic world just waiting to be explored. And as for me? It’s simple: the language helps connect me to home – mo dachaigh – even when I’m far away.

NEED TO KNOW

Where can I experience Gaelic music in the islands?  As I mentioned, music is an excellent way to get introduced to the language, and you can hear it at the likes of An Lanntair in Stornoway, Taigh Chearsabhagh in Lochmaddy, Ceolas in South Uist or at festivals like HebCelt, Eilean Dorcha, and more.

Where can I experience Gaelic in the landscape?  The beaches of the Outer Hebrides are famous, but are more widely known by their English names. Why not get to know them in Gaelic instead? A few of my favourites are the Traigh Mhòr in Lewis, Losgaintir and Seileabost in Harris, and Coilleag a’Phrionnsa in Eriskay.

Where can I learn more about Gaelic ancestry and history?  There are lots of historic sites and museums throughout the islands, but a favourite spot of mine is Comunn Eachdraidh Nis (the Ness Historical Society), which is an absolute treasure trove of community history in the north of Lewis – they even have an extensive archive room that’s been carefully curated over decades. Don’t forget to stop by their café for some tea and cake while you’re there, too!

Where can I find more ideas on making the most of the Gaelic language during my visit?  For more inspiration on how to experience Gaelic on your visit to the Outer Hebrides, take a look at the new e-book guide from Visit Outer Hebrides, Scotland’s Gaelic Islands.

Gaelic Sign Eagleton

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Have you experienced Gaelic while visiting the Outer Hebrides? Which aspect of Gaelic culture would you most like to learn about while visiting? Let me know in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!

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This post is sponsored by Visit Outer Hebrides as part of the “Scotland’s Gaelic Islands” campaign, but as always, all opinions and love for the islands are entirely my own.

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Comments

  1. Mel Hattie says

    September 20, 2021 at 12:05 pm

    I wish my family still spoke Gaelic! It’s been generations since we did. I’d love to visit the highlands and hear some of it. Music to my ears!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 2:58 pm

      I think you’d love visiting the Highlands and Islands! (Although I’d also love to get up to Cape Breton to hear Gaelic there – I think that would be really cool!)

      Reply
  2. Mags Ralston says

    September 20, 2021 at 1:58 pm

    I love it here too . The Gaelic language gently lilts – as well as the beautiful music. The first time I heard Eilean Fraoich was at Dileab. The island commemorated the 100th anniversary of the sad lose of The Iolaire. An honour to have had attended.

    https://youtu.be/VNlqJmuFXG0

    I love your articles and you are a wonderful ambassador for our beautiful island.

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 2:59 pm

      Thank you so much Mags! (Eilean Fraoich always brings a wee tear to my eye – it really is beautiful.)

      Reply
  3. Teresa Haller says

    September 20, 2021 at 4:03 pm

    I started learning Gaelic over 30 years ago, but very rusty now. Spent a couple of weeks touring/camping two years ago – thrilled that the campsite owners in Lewis, North and South Uist were willing to chat in Gaelic with me. Suas leis a’ Ghàidhlig!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 3:04 pm

      Oh that’s wonderful Teresa! I’m really glad you were able to practice your Gaelic when you visited 🙂

      Reply
  4. Kathi says

    September 20, 2021 at 5:29 pm

    I loved sitting in a small community cafe on Harris’ east coast and listening to the people around me chatter away in Gaelic! Such a beautiful sound!!

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 3:07 pm

      That sounds like such a great travel experience to have in Harris 🙂

      Reply
  5. Anne C. Marsh says

    September 20, 2021 at 6:16 pm

    I stayed at a lovely B&B* in Stornoway in … maybe 2000? The landlady spoke Gaelic as her first language and every day I was there I had my breakfast to the sound of her ironing in the kitchen and the local radio station in Gaelic. I speak two languages fluently, two others semi-fluently, and have “studied” Welsh via Duolingo — but the Gaelic is nothing like anything I’m familiar with! It’s beautiful but I have no frame of reference for the sounds. Would love to spend more time in the OH!

    * I realize it’s a LOOOONG time since I was there but was recently very disappointed to discover that the B&B is no longer in business. 😢

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 3:12 pm

      That sounds like you had a lovely travel experience in Stornoway! Gaelic is definitely a tricky one to learn (even having grown up with it, my own abilities are not the best!).

      Reply
  6. Diane says

    September 22, 2021 at 8:42 am

    You are making me yearn for a visit. I grew up on the northeast coast of England so no Gaelic unfortunately although I totally feel like I should have been a Celt but somehow got misplaced at birth lol
    Living in the US now too and sooo understand the concept of cianalas. Its like a deep longing for the nourishment of connectedness and vitality that can only be found in the place of where it all began for each of us.
    I just recently stumbled upon your site for first time and really enjoying catching up on all the past stories. Please keep it up!!! Xxx

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 3:17 pm

      Thanks so much for your lovely comment Diane – I’m really happy to hear you’re enjoying the blog! And I do think a lot of people can relate to “cianalas” like you can. I know Welsh and Portuguese have similar words, so maybe we need something better in English than “homesickness!”

      Reply
  7. Ed Chivers says

    September 24, 2021 at 3:20 am

    A friend of ours has a house at Kneep / Cnip on the west coast of Lewis – we first visited in 2014 and we can’t seem to stay away! Our whole family really love the islands – not just the beautiful landscapes but the people as well. We’ve always felt very welcome – in 2019 we spent four weeks visiting and by the end we all felt like we were starting to settle in to the community, it was a real wrench to leave and drive back to England.

    I can’t wait to visit again.

    Reply
    • Katie MacLeod says

      January 7, 2022 at 3:19 pm

      Oh, I’m so jealous – that’s one of my absolute favourite places in Lewis! It’s no surprise you can’t keep away 🙂 I’m really happy to hear you’ve enjoyed your time in the islands so much. Hopefully it won’t be too long until you can visit again!

      Reply
  8. Peter Cluff says

    February 11, 2022 at 3:47 pm

    I have been learning Gaidhlig on Duolingo for about 18 months. Such a difficult but beautiful language. My wife and I are going to Scotland in early April. Thanks for all the Hebridean information. There is so much more to immersing oneself in the culture of a country than just looking at things and places. Looking forward to a farm/croft stay.

    Reply

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I'm Katie, an expat Scot in the States, and the journalist behind Stories My Suitcase Could Tell, the travel blog which inspires you to explore the world. Read More…

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