There’s more to the Outer Hebrides than the guidebooks would have you believe – but don’t just take my word for it. Visit these islands for yourself, and take this list of essential travel experiences with you!
See the sunset (or the Northern Lights) at the Callanish Stones.
The Callanish Stones are older than Stonehenge, and in my opinion, much more atmospheric. From the air, the stones are laid out in the shape of a Celtic cross, and up close, you can admire their varying shapes and sizes.
As if the stones themselves weren’t enough, their location on the West Side of Lewis is stunning, offering panoramic views across hills and moorland. Visit the stones at sunset, when the changing light makes the place seem almost magical; or brave the cold winter nights for a sighting of the Northern Lights dancing above the ancient pillars.
Walk on the Caribbean-esque beaches of West Harris.
Luskentyre, Seilebost, Horgabost, Scarista: the beaches on the west coast of Harris are regularly listed as some of the best in the UK (and even the world). Once you’ve visited them, it’s easy to see why. You’ll find pure white sand, azure seas, and the entire place all to yourself. The only difficult part will be choosing which ones to spend your time at. My advice? Stop at every single one.
Watch planes land on the beach at Barra Airport.
Barra Airport is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach runway. Due to the tidal nature of the airport, the planes aren’t always on time – but watching one land on the sand is more than worth the wait. If you want to fly into the airport yourself (and who wouldn’t?), FlyBe offer a £75 day return ticket for tourists travelling to Barra from Glasgow. You can bet it’s on my bucket list!
Sail to St Kilda, the ‘islands at the edge of the world.’
The isolated archipelago of St Kilda lies 40 miles west of the Outer Hebrides, and is home to the highest sea cliffs in Britain – not to mention some of the largest wild bird populations in Europe (hello, pufflings!). The last inhabitants were evacuated in 1930, and their abandoned village feels weighted with history. This double World Heritage site is unlike anywhere else on earth, and visiting St Kilda with Sea Harris in 2014 remains one of my all-time favourite travel experiences.
Enjoy a dram (and some scones) at the Harris Distillery in Tarbert.
The Isle of Harris Distillers Ltd only opened in the autumn of 2015, and it’s already earned its spot on the must-visit list for tourists. Take a tour of the distillery to learn the ins and outs of the process, and to see just how intertwined with the local community this ‘social distillery’ is. While the whisky is still in production, you can leave with a beautiful bottle of their Isle of Harris Gin (and a scone from the canteen – they’re the best I’ve ever tried!).
Taste Stornoway Black Pudding at the source.
Don’t think about the ingredients that go into making the (in)famous Stornoway Black Pudding – just eat it! This delicious ‘blood sausage’ (known as a ‘marag’ in Gaelic) is protected under EU law, and can be eaten in a myriad of ways.
I like mine sliced and fried on a breakfast roll with some rashers of bacon and a potato scone (the perfect way to start the weekend), but I’ve also enjoyed it deep fried in small nibbles and served as a starter with seaweed and chilli sauce, at Hotel Hebrides in Harris. Everyone has their own favourite supplier, so make your way into any of the butchers in Stornoway to buy a marag straight from the source.
Smell the peat smoke at the Arnol Blackhouse.
My Dad loves to tell the story of the first time I visited the Arnol Blackhouse, a traditional thatched Lewis house typical of those lived in until the early 20th century. Right in the middle of the stone floor is a peat fire, with a kettle dangling on a chain over it – I thought it smelled marvellous, and asked why we didn’t live in a house like this.
Unsurprisingly, most visitors to this museum take a slightly different view of the smell. Peat smoke aside, the Arnol Blackhouse is a fascinating insight into a long-gone way of life in the islands.
Feast on a 40 North Foods picnic at Dal Beg Beach.
Everything at 40 North Foods – a small, takeaway only, croft-to-table food business – is out-of-this-world delicious. Whether you opt for a salad box filled with a variety of smoked meats (and maybe some actual salad), or one of the freshly made sandwiches, there’s plenty to choose from for your picnic.
If you can refrain from tucking in straight away, drive ten minutes further down the road until you reach the signs for Dal Beg, where you can find a chair-shaped stone on the beach and enjoy your lunch to the soundtrack of pounding waves.
Invest in some Harris Tweed, the champagne of fabrics.
Harris Tweed is the only textile protected by an Act of Parliament: only tweed that has been hand woven by weavers in their homes in the Hebrides can be designated Harris Tweed. The depth of colour is achieved by dying the wool first, and then weaving it into lengths of material that is transformed into everything from Chanel jackets to hotel furnishings.
The tweed mills don’t (usually) offer tours to the public, but you can get your shopping fix in Stornoway (at the Harris Tweed Hebrides flagship store, or quirky independent designer By Rosie), or in Tarbert at the Harris Tweed Shop.
Indulge in luxurious isolation at The Broch at Borve Lodge.
This luxurious self-catering property in Borve on the Isle of Harris is the definition of secluded. Created for couples, and built in the style of an Iron Age broch, the tower blends perfectly into the landscape, making it easy to miss from the road. Inside, you’ll find high-end touches like under-floor heating, slate counter tops, and a four-poster bed that sits below a skylight – perfect for star gazing before drifting off to sleep. (I stayed here for a ‘holiday at home‘ a few years ago, and it was absolute bliss.)
Get a taste of the crofting life at Air an Lot in Ness.
Crofting was once a way of life for every family in the islands; these days, the number of crofters is smaller, but they’re no less dedicated. Domhnall ‘Sweeny’ MacSween opened up his croft in Ness in the north of Lewis to visitors, allowing them to get a hands-on experience of crofting, whether that’s peat cutting, feeding animals, or even clearing out the hen house! Whatever your age, you’ll have a fun – and informative – crofting experience here. (Just don’t drop the Air an Lot ducklings like I did!)
Meet the Lewis Chessmen in Uig.
While you can see a selection of the Lewis Chessmen in London’s British Museum, Edinburgh’s National Museum of Scotland, and now Stornoway’s Museum nan Eilean, a visit to the spot where the intricately carved ivory chess pieces were discovered in 1831 is worth the drive.
The tiny figures were found by a terrified crofter who thought he had stumbled across the fairies, and when you’ve experienced the strange but peaceful isolation in the sand dunes of Uig, you can begin to understand the poor man’s reaction.
(And if the giant oak statue of the chess King in Uig looks familiar, it’s because the Lewis Chessmen were the inspiration behind the wizard’s chessboard in the first Harry Potter film, the Philosopher’s Stone.)
Stroll around Stornoway Harbour.
On a sunny day, there are a few things more enjoyable than grabbing a takeaway coffee (and cake) from Delights, and crossing the road to stroll alongside Stornoway Harbour. If you follow the pier out to the small footbridge at Bayhead Street and into the Castle Grounds, you’ll be rewarded with picturesque panoramic views of the harbour and the colourful shops that line it.
Cross the bridge over the Atlantic to Great Bernera.
Fancy driving across the Atlantic? Then look no further than the bridge between the Isle of Lewis and Great Bernera, which crosses a (very small) sliver of the ocean. It was the first bridge of its kind in Europe, built in 1953 after pressure from Bernera residents.
But don’t stop once you’ve crossed over to the other side: drive a little further and you’ll be rewarded by the beauty of Bosta Beach, a sheltered shell-sand beach framed by dark rocks and green, green grass.
Keep an eye out for otters in Benbecula and Uist.
The Outer Hebrides are one of the best places in Europe to see the European Otter, and in the southern portion of the islands they’re so common that there are road signs warning of their presence. You’ll have to drive slowly anyway, so why not stop the car at one of the many sea lochs to take a closer look?
Follow in the footsteps of Bonnie Prince Charlie in Eriskay.
Charles Edward Stuart (aka Bonnie Prince Charlie) may have left the Western Isles by going ‘over the sea to Skye’, but the first place he apparently set foot in Scotland was on this beach on the island of Eriskay. Follow in his footsteps with a stroll on the beach, and then recharge at another storied spot, Am Politician.
The island pub is named after the cargo ship full of whisky that sank here during WWII, and caused all sorts of calamities. For a funny fictional account of the escapades that followed, read Whisky Galore by Compton Mazkenzie (or watch the new film when it comes out later this year).
Get acquainted with the wild ponies in Loch Skipport, South Uist.
I found out about these unbelievably friendly ponies by accident, and I’m so glad we turned off the main road to say hello to them. The minute they spot you, the ponies will come running – and stick their noses right into the car, if given the chance!
Explore the sea stacs and caves of Garry Beach.
Garry Beach in Tolsta on the Isle of Lewis is a favourite among children – the many sea stacs and caves that are accessible when the tide is out bring to mind adventure stories of smugglers and pirates and 10-year-olds that save the day (can you tell I was bookworm growing up?). It’s a great spot for big kids too, and when you tire of playing hide and seek between the rocks, there are a few picnic tables to rest and recuperate at.
Dance the night (and day) away at the Hebridean Celtic Festival.
The atmosphere that invades the streets of Stornoway at festival time is infectious. Known simply as ‘HebCelt‘, the annual summer music extravaganza sees tourists flock to the islands from across the country (and around the world). But it’s not just the musical acts in the big top tent that draw the crowds, but those in the pubs – and even on the streets – of Stornoway.
Buy tickets for this, and prepare to ceilidh through all hours of the day and night! (This year, the line up is spectacular, with the likes of Runrig, Red Hot Chilli Pipers, and Julie Fowlis taking to the stage. Let’s just say I’m more than a little jealous of everyone heading to the tent this July!)
Discover the secrets of the Lews Castle Grounds on a Segway Tour.
Segways don’t always have the best reputation – but that’s from people who’ve never tried an off-road segway before. Segway Hebrides operates out of the Woodlands Centre in Stornoway’s Castle Grounds, and their hardy segways take you on tours of the grounds, from rushing rivers to steep climbs on narrow woodland paths. It was freezing cold, pouring with rain, and blowing a gale the day I went on a tour – and I still loved it, so I can only imagine how much fun it would be on a sunny day.
Conquer your fear of heights at the Butt of Lewis.
Admittedly, this is an experience I’ve only had once or twice in my life, as I have not conquered my fear of heights (which is why you see a photo of the sign for the Butt of Lewis, Rubha Robhanais, not the cliff edges themselves).
For visitors to the Outer Hebrides however, this is an incredible location to visit. The most northerly point of the island chain is rocky and dramatic, with a lighthouse beaming out its warning from cliffs of about 80 feet high. But don’t risk visiting on a bad day: in winter, wind speeds regularly reach more than 100mph.
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Which Outer Hebrides highlights would you like to experience the most? Are there any sights or activities you would add to the list?
Let me know in the comments below – I’d love to hear from you!
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If you enjoyed this, you might like:
The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide
10 Books To Read Before Visiting Scotland’s Outer Hebrides
A Mini Travel Guide to Stornoway
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I am sitting in my kitchen typing this on a flawless day with 20℃ anticipated again looking out over Bayble Bay at the Highlands of Scotland’s mainland. I am reminded that if you set off from your parents’ house and walk to the cairn on the hill to the South you can see from Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath as well as most of the higher points of Lewis and Harris. It’s magical but I suspect relatively few people have ever seen that view. I think I would probably add to you list a climb of the Clisham: preferably on a good day so that one can see St Kilda. Perhaps for those less able (as I am at the moment) or with less inclination for a hike, a drive south down the East of South Harris and back up the West of South Harris to see countryside as varied and spectacular as even a day’s drive in New Zealand might offer. As you say the list of things to see on these magnificent Islands is endless.
Thanks for your comment, Graham 🙂 I’m very jealous of your current view! There’s nowhere like the islands on a sunny day! I think I’ve done that walk from Eagleton before, back in the days when we still did peats, so I was very young, but I remember feeling as if I could see everything from up there. And I’ve done the Clisham once – that would have been a good one for the list! It was at the start of summer in 2011 and the weather was absolutely perfect for it.
Really loved this blog I just viewed. A year ago I was excitedly anticipating a road trip around Scotland Mainland and the Hebrides Islands of Lewis, Harris and Skye. We did see many of the places you have included in this blog. Our vacation was so much more than we ever hoped we would see. The time went way too fast. After almost a year has passed I can not get Scotland out of my mind, so I totally love reliving our trip thru your beautiful blogs. Thank you so much for sharing with us who lives so far away. I am from Florida and my daughter Washington DC. We dream of visiting Scotland again someday to see more that we to pass by on the first visit.
Thanks Cindy! I am so happy to hear you loved your holiday to Scotland – and especially Lewis and Harris 🙂 I really hope you get to visit again sometime!
Great read, and love that you have such a varied lineup! I was born and brought up on Great Bernera so it was lovely seeing that it made the list, especially since it’s almost always overshadowed by Uig and its beautiful landscapes. Well done for making the effort and going for the less obvious attractions of home… keep up the great work!
Thanks so much Mairi! Great Bernera was a relatively recent visit for me. I’d been when I was in Primary School, on the school day out, but for whatever reasons I didn’t make it back again until summer 2014 – and Bosta just blew me away! I went back again when I was home in March, and even though the weather wasn’t great, it was still beautiful 🙂
Katie…..loved this blog. Beautiful photography. No photos of Port of Ness Beach or the village which I miss so much. Perhaps your next visit…..LOL. Please try a visit to Northern Michigan someday. I think you would love it; our Great Lakes are like inland oceans…..not Ness, but I’ll take it in the meantime. Love your writing; keep traveling and writing; you are a very talented young lady. Regards,.
Thanks so much, Christine, I’m so glad you enjoyed it 🙂 Haha I do love Port of Ness – next time! I’d love to make it out to Michigan sometime. When I do I’ll be asking you for tips 🙂 !
How very interesting and such gorgeous pics! I have always wanted to visit the Hebrides and Outer Hebrides…wow…seeing the sunset and Northern Lights at the Callanish Stones must be out of this world. So glad I discovered your blog.
Thank you Birgit! I hope you make it to the islands sometime soon 🙂
Lovely blog Katie, good advert for our lovely island. Mind you, living in Bernera, I am a little biased! Love your photos too which show the fabulous colours and the fantastic light, the pattern and texture and the immense sky and sea that we are a part off.
Thanks so much, Ros! Glad you enjoyed it 🙂 I love the light at home – and it’s only when I’ve been away, and surrounded by skyscrapers, that I really appreciate how ‘big’ the sky really seems at home.
No mention of the Isle of scalpay , which is joined by a bridge between Harris and scalpay it boasts one of the first lighthouses built by the stevenson family of which Robert louie the author and a great little restaurant at the local community shop in North harbour. I hope you get a chance to visit us soon . P.s.the owner of the bistro
Hello George! Don’t worry, the Isle of Scalpay will be on the blog soon 🙂 The bistro actually came up in conversation with friends in Washington, D.C. this weekend – we popped in for lunch in March, and Mr. Stories My Suitcase Could Tell was saying it served the best seafood he’s ever had!
Your list is great. Here are a few of my other favourites:
A trip with Seatrek.
A walk down the Barvas Machair with a stop at the salmon pools.
A night at the sheiling on the Barvas Moor.
Cutting peats and waiting for your first smell of a peat fire after you get off the ferry.
Gathering cockles in Uist.
A drive around Grimosaigh.
Fresh seafood from Kallin.
Feeding pet lambs.
Machair potatoes.
A cup of tea and visit with relatives.
Thanks for all these great suggestions, Janet! I used to love going to the peats when I was a child (although I didn’t have to do any of the hard work then!).
Hi there for those who don’t have a car gordon of Harris365 is doing tours this year, a local man who also does photographs, he’ll take you to any of the iconic spots!
Thanks for that bit of info, Fi! I love Gordon’s photos – I bet his photo tours will be brilliant!
Yes to all of these! I would like – before we leave Scotland one day – to do a massive one month trip to the Outer Hebrides! I want to fly to Barra and do kite surfing, and I want to see those crystal water beaches, see the wild ponies, would love to stay in a blackhouse for a night, see the Callanish stones (and northern lights on top would be amazing!). I’ve recently invested in a handbag and purse made of harris tweed and I regret nothing. 😀
A month would be perfect – especially in the summer! And I support you on the Harris Tweed purchase 100% haha – I have a Harris Tweed blazer I bought just before I moved to the US and I love it!
Thank you for this & all your other writings on the Outer Hebrides Katie.
Ive just booked up my 1st trip there next week & cannot wait,taking my 3yo boy(already completed a successful trial run to Arran!)
From Ayrshire to Mallaig-Skye-Tarbert. 2 nights camping at Shawbost then back onto the mainland via Stornoway. A quick trip but will pack plenty in i’m sure & all being well (3year-old & weather) will stop off for a night somewhere on the way home.
Thank you for the kind words, Alan! It sounds like you’ve got a great holiday planned – I hope you and your son have a wonderful time 🙂
If anyone is interested, there are camping pods available at Callanish that are a short walk away from the stones. This means you can spend as much time as you want there after all the tourist coaches have left.
Thanks for sharing this, Paul – it sounds like it would be a great experience!
Katie, Thanks for your blog, gives us great insight. My 3 time Great Grandfather (Ronald O’Handley), wife and 9 children left South Uist for Eastern Canada (PEI then CBI) in 1823 & as far as I know, none of us have been back. I’ve been thinking about a visit for some time so this kind of information & the comments it solicits are invaluable. Thanks again. Hugh
Thanks for your comment, Hugh, I’m so pleased the blog has been helpful for you. How interesting to hear that you have a connection to the islands – I’m sure you would love it if you visited 🙂
We’re hopefull to be there early May ..you’re blog has inspired us to just go !
Thank you Susan – I’m absolutely delighted to hear that! That really means so much to me. I hope you have an amazing time!
A really comprehensive list! We spent a week touring the Outer Hebrides several years ago and your blog really captures the magic of the islands. Must think about another visit soon!
Thanks so much for your lovely comment Nigel! I hope you get back to visit soon 🙂
So many awesome things! I honestly think Stonehenge is so overrated when you’ve got the Callanish Stones and even the Ring Of Brodgar here. Interestingly, I just googled a couple of things because I’m sure the cliffs on one of Orkney’s islands is the highest in the UK. Guess what? Both of them have that description! But I think the one here is the highest vertical. Think I’d definitely get some vertigo with both of them, anyway!
A lot of things sound similar to Orkney, although that’s unsurprising really. I definitely need to visit!!
Interesting fact about that chess king, too! 🙂
I’m happy to hear someone else agrees me about Stonehenge being overrated haha! I’d love to see the Ring of Brodgar (although I’d probably have to keep away from those cliffs!). I bet there are quite a few similarities between the islands. My brother lives in the north of Scotland now, so I need to make it over to Orkney one of these days!
This post has me so excited for my upcoming trip to the Outer Hebrides. Basing myself in Finsbay, Isle of Harris and have 10 days to explore the islands. This will be my 5th trip to Scotland, but my first to the Outer Hebrides
I’m so glad it’s helped you get ready for your trip, Jill! Harris is beautiful, and with 10 days you’ll have lots of time to explore all the other islands, too!
Katie..what a wonderful blog..the way you describe the Outer Hebrides..my wife are visiting them soon…and can only say..we just cannot wait to see the beauty you describe….thank you…its been a pleasure to read…
Thank you Stanley, I’m so happy to hear you’ve enjoyed reading the blog. I hope you and your wife have a wonderful time in the islands!
Hi Katie what a great read that was. I’m a Scot living abroad in Australia. I’m coming home for a month and will be campervanning around the Outer Hebrides. I’ve jotted down your great suggestions and make sure I’ll be seeing them all. Thank you!
And its 2019, Almost 2020 already! Still a ggreat
article! Proud to say: been there, done that, except for
The hebceltfestival. And going back as soon
As I can.
How are you doing nowadays? Any new stories
About the OH?
Kind regards!
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Either at the Butt of Lewis or at Tumpain Head take time (perhaps with a picnic lunch or flask of soup, or bottle of beer) to watch for the abundance of cetaceans that visit the area. Check out the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust website hwdt.org and WhaleTrail for more information about what you might see, and for other well known hotspots.